Adjustment question.

Are the shrouds all the way at the bottom of the shackles at the chainplates?
As for the bushings and anchors on the hulls, pictures might help.

Sorry, I should have said there is room to adjust shrouds on chainplate. Forestay is main issue, no where to go, and how much tension? Extra parts source for odd items is what I need, some of the bolts probably didn't come with bushings. It just seems it would reduce the rub on the gelcoat and not ream out the hole to a point of failure.

Depends on the amount of rake you want the mast to have. If all is for fun then I think you don't need any, but you certainly don't want forward rake. The shrouds/forestay should be tight enough to not allow significant wobble of the mast but not impede the mast rotation.

What kind of boat? The Hobie 16 is sailed with a lose forestay after putting up the jib. The jib has a wire forestay in it and that is what you ues to tighten up the rig. It's been a long time since I have been on a 16 so someone else speak up.

Dlennard,
You are exactly right. When you hoist the jib, the wire luff on it becomes the new forestay and it pulls the mast forward considerably and tensions up the whole rig. You'll notice a fiddle type block at the bitter end of the jib halyard and a cheek block mounted to the mast. Rig these two up with about 20' of 1/4 inch line and hoisting the jib/tensioning the rig will be a snap. If you want to sail jibless, you'll have to add some sort of other line or wire stay to tension up the rig with.
jrg

But wouldn't you want the rig at least 'snug' if you were going to leave it rigged on the beach for extended periods? The wind might knock the mast back and forth resulting in some extra wear on the rigging and hulls.

Yup... I just use an old piece of 1/4 line. I tie one end to the bridle and the other end to the jib halyard shackle and haul it up to tighten the rig. I wouldn't recommend sailing with this though, only a stationary, temporary setup, obviously.
jrg

Thanks, I'm listening and taking notes. As far as "rake" or "none" does that mean set the mast straight up? Please consider my other questions? I bow to all posters superior knowledge and experience on theese topics. Tks, again!

WidDunesDavid,
I'll try my best to help. I've only been sailng a 16 for a couple of summers, but I may be able to help with some things. The best place to start for replacement parts is here...
http://www.hobiecat.com/support/tech/h16parts.html
It is a parts diagram for your boat. You'll also want to order the free catalog here... It's filled with TONS of great stuff.
http://www.hobiecat.com/sailing/accessories.html#catalog
As far as the shrouds go, you'll want everything pretty tight. When you're sailing the leeward shroud will be a little slack, but when the boat's on the beach all three should be pretty tight. I don't really understand what you mean by "close up the shroud anchors in the hull." And what bushings are you talking about? Let us know and we'll do our best to answer.
jrg

JRG,
I figured the shrouds and stays needed to be a little snug just to be sure the mast doesn't pop out and come crashing down.
The thruhull "anchors" that the chainplates attach to for the shrouds on each side have a fair amount of play where water can get into the hull. I know they need to rotate a bit but wanted to limit the inflow of water. At the tip of each bow the thruhulll bolts are tight but I was concerned about them rubbing against the gelcoat and reaming out the hole to much. I'm trying to get a large printout of the parts list to be able to use the exact term in my explanations, my eyes aren't what they used to be.
Thanks

I see. On my 16 the holes through which the shroud anchors go are only through the top lip of the hull, meaning that there is no place for the water to actually get into the hull through that hole. I wonder if yours have worn through the inside edge and have made a small hole clear through the fiberglass. If you back out the shroud anchors, can you see into the hull? If so, it may be time for some fiberglass and epoxy repairs... As far as the bridle anchors in the bows of the boat, mine have swiveled around and worn out a bit of the gelcoat. If it bothers you I suppose you could put some washers between the clip and the fiberglass, or maybe silicone them into place so the holes don't get any bigger. If you order the Hobie Catalog the last 15 or so pages contain the exploded diagrams and part numbers for all their boats.

jrg

JRG,
Thanks for the update. I don't kow how far the anchors go into the hull. They seem to be through just the top of the hull. They swivel as if they were toggle bolts not tightened. I can't see a way to remove them. I don't know what a cutaway look of the hulls are. I just assumed the top of the hulls sat like a cap on the lower portion therfore any hole would allow water into the pontoons.
PS I ordered the catalog, Thanks.

I stand corrected. I went home to ck and the anchors go through the lip of the hull. Now I just need a bushing or sleeve to minimize the wear on the hole and gelcoat.
Sorry for the mis info, I'll be more infomred in the future.

Doesn´t the forestay get tensioned anyway when going upwind, because of the elasticity of the halyard? (or is it a wire too?)

The H16 jib has a wire line in the luff so there is not much streach there. As for the halyard streaching, I never had a problem with that. I just use low streach line and the 2:1 purchase as described earlier in the post.

Set the shrouds in the lowest hole in the chain plates. Step the mast. The forestay will be loose. Raise the jib and, using the thimble in the end of the halyard, cheek block and cleat on the side of the mast to make a 3:1, tension it very tight. That'll take all of the slop out of your rig.

If you want to use a better 3:1 system, buy or assemble a Aussie halyard system. Add a small cheek block on the mast just above the top batten and run the halyard around it. That'll keep the halyard on the side of the mast so the battens won't hang.