anodized aluminum question
I have just had my crossbeams re anodised. The were black and I have gone natural silver. $45 for both. They must be free of all fittings and dirt, grease etc.
Not perfect but once all of the fittings were back on most dings were hidden. Improved the look of the boat no end.
I am going for a stick on tread for the front of the mast lower down and I will find sailing stickers for some marks higher up.
If the marks on the mast are in one loacallity I would go for stick ons and flag paint.
The boat in question doesn't just have a problem in one area of the mast. It was left outside w/out cover and w/out any protective coating on the metal. Thus, all the metal is just very faded and ugly looking... That's why I was wondering about just repainting all of it.
Not perfect but once all of the fittings were back on most dings were hidden. Improved the look of the boat no end.
I am going for a stick on tread for the front of the mast lower down and I will find sailing stickers for some marks higher up.
If the marks on the mast are in one loacallity I would go for stick ons and flag paint.
That's interesting - I didn't think it was practical to re-anodize aluminum or even possible to change the color. Do you have a consistent clear color now?
Jake these beams have come up great. There was a little bit of corrosion on one beam but 99% of people would think they were brand new. The people had no problem with the colour change. They cared about how welll prepared he beams were. The Two beams (hydra, heavy beams) were $45 for both because they were the most requested colour. I did the new boom section in gold and that was $45 by itself to bring it to marine grade. For that money why would you pay for powder coating or the two pot undercoat and top coat you would need.
I am told that anodising needs to be prepared well because of its properties if it is to be painted. I would bother to locate a really good paint in a can and spray the mast. there are some good silver spray and gold. IF you get a good spray undercoat as well you will get away with the whole job for less than 50 bucks.
Some homework on prep (with a spar maker) and paint will get you a result you are hppy with.
Sanding them sounds like a really good idea, but let me tell you it is not.
I learned the hard way about aluminum. My dad had a horse trailor that was aluminum, it was really starting to look crappy, it was really dull and dirty looking so we sandblasted it. Hey we had a nice shiny trailor but after the first couple of trips it looked the exact same. The oxidation on aluminum protects the rest of it from oxidizing. So if you sand it you only get the good look for a few weeks and then you are in the same situation.
annodization is a chemical dying process, and as such doesn't actually put a
coating
that can be sanded off. When you
sand
the annodization, you're actually taking material off, and not just a coating like with paint.
The quality of the annodization is all about the prep work. The smoother the surface, the better the results. I used to prepare paintball gun bodies for annodization, and we'd spend two weeks milling, polishing, milling, polishing and more polishing gun bodies just to get a nice anno job.
I agree with Warbird. If you can get them anodized, you would be out of your mind trying to paint them It takes many steps - sanding, zinc-chromate wash, primer, then paint, all within correct time frames and temperatures. Paint is expensive. Anodize gets the inside too, because it's submersed in a tank.
If the mast is too big for you local anodizer, powder coat would be my next choice. I powder coated the spin pole from my monoslug and it still looks great after 3 years of hard use.
Steve
Hobie FX-1
Sail #211
Go to Home Depot and and buy Marine Penetrol. Wipe it on and let dry. Might take a couple three coats to get the result you want.
Stuff lasts about a year. To recoat just go to the car wash and pressure spray off what will come off and recoat.
I have a friend who does this every year and his black alum. always looks great.
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