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Broke the boom to mast connector........

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Todd Hubbell
(@Scubajeep)
Posts: 70
Mate Registered
Topic starter
 
[#15331]

I broke the part that holds the boom to the mast (1980 Hobie 18)....Check out the picture at:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Scubajeep/Jeep%20stuff%20for%20sale/100_1525.jpg

[Linked Image]

How Do I fix it?

Also how should I replace the trap handles?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Scubajeep/Jeep%20stuff%20for%20sale/100_1526.jpg

[Linked Image]

Thanks
Todd H
Thibodaux Louisiana


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 9:29 am
 Trey
(@NCSUtrey)
Posts: 813
Chief Registered
 

Any hobie dealer can get you the parts for the hobie 18 gooseneck. Just drill those rivets out, remove the endcap, then remove to gooseneck part. Put the new one in, and put it all back together. Be sure to use aluminum rivets so that you don't have problems with dissimilar metals on down the road (ie corosion). For the trap handles, assuming that the wires themselves are in good shape (double check them!), go ahead and break off the old handles. I'm not sure if the online catsailor store has them, but I know Murray's Marine has handles that are made to replace those. They just screw together over the wire and work well. Good luck!
Trey
N20 314
Layline Rigging
www.velocitysailing.com


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 10:27 am
mmiller
(@mmiller)
Posts: 1237
Master Chief Registered
 

Be sure you also have the right parts to make the connection. The only time I have seen a boom pin break is when attached incorrectly. Possibly pined directly to the yoke on the mast. There should be a small flat plate bent into a "U" that we call the hinge vertex. This acts as a universal joint. The vertex pins to the boom pin, then the bottom of the "U" on the vertex pins to the yoke on the mast.

The screw on trap handles are a Hobie product, so you can get from any Hobie dealer.


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 11:38 am
(@catman)
Posts: 1600
Master Chief Registered
 

If your not sure when the last time they were replaced you may just want to buy all new trap wires. The replacement handle while strong and easy to install was heavy. Nothing worse than having that damm handle hit you in the temple,or letting go of the handle and hitting the crew between the eyes. Been there done that. I still have it but only for a back-up. To the wires, Nothing worse than having your crews wire break and as they hit the water the rudder moving at 20 mph hits him in the leg leaving large bruise to which you hear moaning and groaning for a couple weeks. I told him I was sorry


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 3:24 pm
(@catman)
Posts: 1600
Master Chief Registered
 

One other thing. I'm not sure how long you've had your boat, besides the normal things you look at for maintance check the shroud anchors. This is the eye that comes up through the hull. The shroud is attached to it. Unscrew it all the way and look closely at it. I had to replace these things yearly. It would tear in half. I had one break and found a few over the years several that had cracks.

The other thing to look at is the furler. Look at the stainless where the bridles are attached. Where the metal is formed into a circle around the drum, look for cracks at the bottom.


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 3:41 pm
(@Anonymous 27)
Posts: 213
 
Quote
One other thing. I'm not sure how long you've had your boat, besides the normal things you look at for maintance check the shroud anchors. This is the eye that comes up through the hull. The shroud is attached to it. Unscrew it all the way and look closely at it. I had to replace these things yearly. It would tear in half. I had one break and found a few over the years several that had cracks.

I second that. Two years ago we dismasted during a race when one of those let go. The bolt had rusted through.


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 7:06 pm
(@rodgers)
Posts: 328
Mate Registered
 

All great advice given. you should consider replacing all the wire rigging. at least inspect it.
those shroud anchor pins break right at the first thread for me. my analysis showed that the shroud comes in at an angle while the pin sticks staight up. when heavy loads are put on the shroud, it tries to bend the pin. the thread is the weakest spot and the pin breaks there. not tightening up the nut on the pin, and trimming away a little glass around the hole in the lip made the pin line up with the shroud angle.
If you don't have a hobie dealer you can get all your wires and parts like the beefed up yoke you will need at Murrays.


 
Posted : April 25, 2005 10:51 pm
MaryAWells
(@maryawells)
Posts: 5485
Member
 

You can also get all the parts for almost everything right here in our on-line store. That's how you guys can all help to support this web site and these forums. And thanks to everybody who does.


 
Posted : April 26, 2005 4:25 am
Todd Hubbell
(@Scubajeep)
Posts: 70
Mate Registered
Topic starter
 

Got the replacment for the goose neck and will work on it this weekend.....

Does anyone know what size rivits to use?

Thanks
Todd Hubbell


 
Posted : May 10, 2005 10:42 am
(@mbounds)
Posts: 1823
Master Chief Registered
 

3/16 stainless, medium length.


 
Posted : May 10, 2005 1:13 pm
Chris
(@greencj)
Posts: 592
Chief Registered
 

3/16" Aluminum would also work. This is not a high stress application - the boom is in compression, tending to hold the end cap in place. Plus as someone else already mentioned it reduces corrosion from dissimilar metals.

Chris.


 
Posted : May 10, 2005 1:24 pm
Todd Hubbell
(@Scubajeep)
Posts: 70
Mate Registered
Topic starter
 

Thanks Guys..... Ya'll are the best!


 
Posted : May 10, 2005 1:31 pm
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