Does anyone mind a sailing question?

What kind of boat is it and pictures would help!

Nacra 5.5SL I can give you a Pictures tomorrow post bend but here is one pre-bend.. Is it too high?

Picture didn't come through the first time I'll try again

that does look pretty high.

What would help even more is a picture of the post with the mast properly seated on it.

I agree that it does look a little high - weird. But I notice that the picture didn't have it fully assembled.

Hey Bull, I replaced my ball and post at about the same time you did and I noticed the same thing happend to mine. I also had the speculation that I left the post too long. I have a very slight bend aft in the post and crease or dent in the ball, I suspect that it was from when I was attempting to step the mast and had the mast rotated to the side and basically hanging on the capitve pin and resting on the aft beam. Seems like that would be the only way I could get enough leverage on the post to bend it. I figured I would cut it down after this season. I am finally rigged and on the beach and have actually been out a few times; so I will be darned if I am going to de-step to cut the post down now!

I have a Nacra 5.5u - and my ball is about half an inch lower than that.

It took me a while to get used to stepping the mast on my boat. In my ignorance, I tried to mount the mast oriented vertically (not lying on its side), with more than a few demastings resulting (even snapped my captive pin in half!) My mast and ball escaped unscathed, but I can imagine the pressure from the mast being great enough to bend a longer post.

Good luck!

Aaron

It looks like the post is not connected to the dolphin striker support. Look at where the post sits on top of the aluminum support for the striker--it looks like it is pushed back.

I have a few Nacra front crossbars and they are either 'welded' (screwed in from the bottom?) to the support or they have a plastic/ruberized metal piece that holds them in place.

I bet that when you are sailing that rod 'walks' off the support piece and that probaly lends to your post getting bent because it allows it to go through the beam at an angle. I would also try to figure out how to secure it so it has some support and actually does its job, which is to support the front beam.

Dan,

That was another thread and that is why the beam has the large welded aluminum plate on it - post slipped off the striker. If I remember, he took that picture just before the base piece (it's alumninum) was expected to arrive.

fine--burst my bubble. I thought I actually had something relevant to add for once!

Sorry Dan, Jakes right on the money. I know how you feel though, there are lots of times I wish I had the knowledge to help out like these guys do!
Here are the current photos.... Sorry but I have to send them one at a time. I haven't had time to step the mast and take a picture yet but I will. The direction of the bend bothers me. I could understand it more if it bent forward rather than aft, figuring it happened while stepping the mast but .........

Picture Two of my bent shaft

And finally Picture 3 (opposite view of Pic 1)

I'd say that's a combination of not enough mast rake and too long a mast support. The threaded post has clearly developed a bend, and that bend is going to continue until the post fails if you try to sail with it as is....

Hey..hey...hey....there'll be none of that.

Sorry. It slipped out.

looks like your mast post needs to hit puberty and get a ball-drop.

Is the ball too high? By 1/2 inch? 1 inch?
Is the point to have it as low as possible but still have clearance enough to step it?

Finally, What is your opinion about continuing to use this post? Replace? Bend back straight? Leave it alone?

Thanks
Greg

Picture two different angle.

When the ball is totally screwed down, there should be 1/2" to no more than 5/8" gap of thread showing. Anything more will lead to the mast falling down.

Bob

Thanks Bob that helps alot. What about the question of the current condition? Leave it alone or replace it?
I thought if I could cut it down from the top rather than the bottom (And still screw the ball on, of course)I could get rid of most of the bent section. Is that a good idea do you think?

YIKES!!!
It's too high.
If it can't be straightened and cut then you'll need to replace it. There should be no more then an inch between the ball and the cross beam.

Greg,

You might be able to cut that down - but it looks pretty bannanned all the way to the topmost nut. You should probably purchase a replacement and cut the bottom of it to get the elevation correct.

BTW - if you ever cut threads off, first put a nut down below your cut. Make your cut, debur the edges where you cut it, then back the nut off to clean up the threads.

I tried to take the banana apart and the nut just jammed itself to the point that I finally got pissed and sawed the bent post and replaced the entire thing. Before intalling the new one though I did exactly what you say in your posting and cut it to length from the bottom. Left about 3/4 of an inch showing of threads and tried it out today and everything is ship shape.
Thanks for your help. Good luck with Ophelia! Looks like you'll be sending her towards Brian Mc. when you are through with her.

Greg

Thanks - she turned more northerly overnight ...looks like Haterras now. Looks like we're going to be spared everything but 10 to 20knot breeze...it would be a good day to play hookie.

You had post problems and I had stay problems with my Nacra. My stays were too short. I'm curious, how many holes did you pick up in either side stay or forestay by lopping an inch off your post?

Also, anybody have an opinion on the travelar car of the mid-80's Nacra. I personally think they suck. I've torn mine off the track twice now and had to purchase more bearings twice now. I've now got the boat sep up to manu. specs (rear bar tilting forward for the boomless Nacra 5.0 and I removed the bullet block that I had on the rear bar to give me more traveler purchase).

Danno

Danno

On the shrouds I went down 2 holes and on the forestay I went down 3. I think I could actually go one more all around but I'm not sure how tight they should be, true be told. It's also hard to tell how much the mast is raked unless it's in the water. I used it yesterday this way and it was fine (no weather helm at all). I'm just going to experiment with it I guess.

Fingers crossed but I haven't had ANY problems with the traveler. I squirt in McLube about every other time I go and I make sure it doesn't slam the ends of the rail but other than that...... Could it be a different one than yours since my boat is a 1991 5.5SL?

Ya know - I havent sprayed my track or car - good idea! I'll try it and see if it seems smoother.

Another question - how's your purchase on your main sheet blocks? I also sail a Prindle 18 that has a 6:1 purchase. My Nacra 5.0 has 5:1 and I think there is a big differance. 6:1 MUCH easier to sheet in. Don't know what your Nacra has. Also, I'm now always afraid I'm gonna rip my travelar car off the track when I'm cranking on the main sheet.

Danno

I had an issue with my Nacra 5.5 traveller earlier - it was ripped right off the track. After talking to people on this forum I was told 3 things:

1) There are 2 Harken traveller cars for the Nacras: a wide and a narrow. The narrower car is preferred. (I had the small car already - but if you have the big car you might want to buy a different car)
2) when the car frequently snags on the track, it is usually because the car and ball bearings need cleaning (and occasionally the track too)
3) Many people lose ball-bearings when they attempt to clean the cars, and then reattach the car with less than the maximum number of balls.

My solution was to thoroughly clean the car with soap and water, McLube the traveller track, and purchase brand new ball bearings. Since then, the traveller has been noticeably smoother and never "snags" the track the way it used to.

Thanks to everyone who helped me on that post. Good luck!