Mast rotation 4 boomless cats necessary 4 racing?

I have trouble conceptualizing (?) the issue of mast rotation downwind because people set it as if the wind were really coming from the side when, especially with the spin, it actually isn't by the time you have apparent wind. So, according to wind flow, it should just be a little out from where it is upwind but everyone seems to blow it completely and let it go almost 90 degrees. Who knows though, just thoughts...
Nacra 14sq the rotation becomes needed downwind in the light. Once the wind is up enough to force it around you are better off concentrating on not making mistakes and keeping your head out of the boat.
Up wind the in-haul is what sets the mast rotation so do not give it a thought as far as the spanner is concerned. Get the in-haul and main tension right and you are sweet. Again, less mistakes and mucking about inboard is faster.
How about w/ a spin? The traveller is not out very far on spin boats off the wind.
Actually, you MUST have it with a spin. Otherwise, you can't control the mast rotation and it could rotate to weird angles and cause breakage. On a boat with a boom, that can force positive rotation with sheet pressure, it's not necessary to lock in the mast rotation.
I have rotation-inducing hardware on both my 5.7 and 5.5uni, generally considered mandatory for downwind control of sail shape on boomless rigs. I'll take a picture wednesday & post.
I mount the rotator facing forward. And you must have lines to keep jib sheets from tangling.
Cleat position for rotator should be where you can easily release just before a jibe. I have a continuous line, so I can cleat & uncleat from either side, using H240 swivel cleats and bullseye fairleads. You'll need a special mounting pad to mount the swivel cleat on the NACRA round beam.
cool idea, thanks.
I recently took my swivel cleat & pads off to service the old swivel cleat, and noticed corrosion on the aluminum beam under the pad. Any ideas on how to avoid corrosion like this? I'm used to seeing corrosion where SS screws go into Aluminum, but this was a 2" diameter circle that will eventually eat through my beam!
What about cleaning it before mounting, then using silicone or something to seal it and keep salt water out?
A simple and cheap way to stop this problem..clean the effected area, apply a thin film of
Calsium Starite
a polimer based grease.(clear lithium will work too) These soap based greases resist water and will stay put forever ! clean around the area after re-assemble with MEK or 111 tricloro.
Find a DuBois Chemical or Johnson-Diversey rep in your area..he or she will be happy to give you a small sample (-1oz.)if that fails, I will mail you some myself..
yes, you'll have to make some kind of hole in tramp, if it wraps over front beam, and you want to mount to front beam.
Actually this could be very small hole/grommet, to attach a turning block at the location where previous photo shows a swivel cleat, and then mount the swivel cleat out near end of the beam, past where the tramp is. Least damage to tramp that way.
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