? Molds ?

tape some plastic to your hulls where you want the cradles to be and put on seven or eight layers of glass on it. let it cure and

glue in some carpet. attach a block on the bottom and affix to the trailer.

You can use wax paper also instead of plastic.

the only problem is the width. with the plastic, you can protect more of the boat at once.

The only problem I see with this method is that the finished cradle will be the same size as the boat and when you put the carpet in, it will be smaller. I found it easier to measure the hull with hanger and then cut 2 boards the aproximate shape of the hull and put tyvek (fedEX envelope) over it and fiberglass an inverse mould then sand to 600 grit and paint with mould release and form a cradle. That way the finished cradle is about 1/4" larger than the boat and the carpet fits perfectly.

You are correct about the cradle being smaller than the hull once you put the carpet in.

However, you want a tight cradle in order to distribute the load over a broader area. The cradles will flex enough to make a tight fit.

If you don't want tight cradles, it is easier to build up a thickness of newspaper, over the hulls, to match the thickness of the carpet.

I bought my cradles from Murrays. They were oversized enough for my N6.0 that I was able to add a layer of high density (minicell) foam. Minicell is easily shaped. After the 3/4 inch sheets were glued to the cradles, I used a surform tool to shape the foam to my hulls, then glued some marine grade carpet on top. The weight of the boat on top of the foam added to the perfect fit.

Cheers,

Why not lay the intended carpet on the hull and glass right to the carpet. The epoxy will hold the carpet in place once the glass sets up around it. The carpet will then be exactly the size of the hull and you can be less cautious with the wax paper or plastic that protects the hull.

the only promlem with that is what if the resin bleeds through the carpet?

I have a mould for a cradle if you want I'll sell 2 for $70 + shipping and you can put foam and carpet and what ever else you want in them.

If you put the carpet down first, wax paper next then the glass you'll get a perfect fit.This type of cradle is a snug fit. You would use the rollers to load the boat then install them before tying the boat down. you would also need to wrap the roller with wax paper and drape glass over the roller then glass the cradle to it.

I just had another idea, why not integrate the cat tracks into the trailer? Once you get the boat far enough on to balance on the rear roller, move the trax back to the rear beam, lash, and place the trax axle into a piece of u-channel or inverted u-bolt.....thoughts?

I have used a similar method. Carpet, then wax paper taped down to hull. Then used mat material instead of cloth, as it is stonger. Glue carpet to mold for perfect fit. The final mold was then backed with a piece of 1/2 marine plywood. Place boat on trailer, slide on mold with plywod between mold and trailer rollers. Attach plywood to mold with a fillet of fiberglass/resin. Works great, good fit, can also be used to make Cat Wheels. Use pipe straps on plywood bottom to attach to axel. Same set can be used on trailer and Cat Wheels.

There is one large problem with most homemade/solid cradles, they don't drain well.

I had a set under my 5.2 and they stayed wet too long, which caused an area of "orange peel" on the hulls.

If you look at a set of factory Hobie 20 cradles, they are laid up from the outside. This leaves an opening in the center for the water to drain.

Don't ruin your hulls with a bad design.

Good idea arbo06, In fact I use my wheels to help support the hulls on my Mystere 6.0. I have rollers in the back. The rollers in the front were replaced with store bought cradles. After the the boat is tied down I take the wheels up front and slide them on the tounge of the trailer until the cradles of the wheels sung up against the hulls.I tie them off there.This gives added support about 3-4 FT. forward of the main beam. Other boats,trailer combos may need some mods. One thing to look out for with this is to make sure there is enough clearance between the road and the wheels! You might have to go to a taller trailer tire and go up on the hitch ball hight to achieve it. One other thing remember the wheels use a hollow alum. tube. I don't think you want to use that to support the boat in place of the cross beams.

That is exactly how I have my Taipan trailer setup- I use the rear mast stand to hold the trax (dolly) axle down and forward against two "L" shaped pieces welded to the rear of the trailer. Nice thing about the Taipan is that the boat is so light I tie the dolly at the rear beam, lift by a bow, roll forward to get bows on front cradles, then go to rear, lift boat and dolly and slide forward until dolly axle is resting against "L" brackets, then go froward and lift front beam onto another set of "L" brackets at front of trailer. I'll try to attach a photo or I can E-mail you one if it doesn't work-

Kirt

Okay, that wasn't the photo I wanted but this shows it all better-

Kirt

I must really be lazier than I already knew I was.

I have a Nacra 6.0, before that, Prindle 18-2. Both have symmetrical hulls. (As does most boats these days).

I find a 12" diameter PVC pipe at a construction site for free. Use a jig saw, and cut it into the shape of a cradle, it's easy.

If using them on your wheels, line up the axle holes, drill and use a stove bolt head(flat).

Contact cement some good carpet to it (friends a carpet layer, I only use the good stuff).

Get creative and use a similar/ strong/ easy method to attach them to your trailer.

These are much stronger than the commercially available types, almost free, and work forever. For my Nacra 6.0 hull, the round shape of the 12" pipe works very snug.

For an I-20(fatter hulls), you'd probably need at least 15"diameter. Just place a cut piece against the hull as a template.

Just some more ideas, and what works for me, without any glassing.

Todd Bouton

That is the ticket!!!! integrated trax!

Thanx,

Eric