n20 self tacking system
Thanks,
Tim
The jib is cut different...it's shorter on the foot and may have some other changes to keep the sail area the same.
Any F18 self tacking system could be adapted although the system currently in use on the Nacra Infusion is the same system the N20 had on it at the end of it's production cycle. You might even find some success in adapting an F18 jib (that might be a long shot).
Roger, thanks Jake. I was looking at one of your old threads.. http:/
Lots of useful info there.
You can use the stock jib you have, you just have to cut the clew off and get the 5 hole clew plate which shortens it up enough to clear the self tacker gear. This was how everyone did it when the self tacker was first introduced(2001/2002). I have a set of the clew plates which I never installed around somewhere, as well as a used non-self tacking jib and maybe a self tacking one also. The jibs may have evolved to be different now but it wasn't for the self tacker.
Thanks TCF, I'll have to take a look at my jibs and see if they're serviceable for this or not.
Here's two more questions
1) Is there any simple way to have self tacking and roller furling capabilities?
2) Does anyone rig the jib traveler as a separate control from the jib sheet, like a soling?
For both furling and self tacker you need vertical battens. I put a furler on my 20 during the 2000 Worrell 1000 and promptly removed it. I don't like the way the boat behaves with the jib furled and it was easier for me to control with it out. I still have the complete custom Harken set-up for the 20 if you're trying to find one.
For jib traveler ,I just used a line from the car through a bullseye to a cleat. Pretty common set-up for self tackers.
If furling required you should be aware that you have to handle a lot of rope on the tramp while sailing (this length does not skip into the beam)The jib-traveller line should have a low breakload (Polyester only)like 120-150pounds. This is strong enough to handle the forces while sailing but weak enough to break in case you hide the jib during a capsize. Serious damage will occur to your jib Equipment in case this line does not break. cheers from germany
sorry, my english is bad. instead of
hide
i wanted to type
hit
. both words sounds nearly identical in german.
last year i jumped with one of my feet into the jib during a capsize, right in the luff/leach Corner. Result was that the jib traveller was bent and some of the seams of the jib were crushed. My helmsman had replaced the original Polyester rope against a dyneema one.
I don't really understand what you're trying to say stampede; unless you are referring to the line that runs through the 2:1, 3:1, or 4:1 purchase system on the shackle that attaches to the jib. If the jib traveler car line breaks, the jib traveler car just gets sent to the end of the track, solving nothing as far as releasing the jib. If your traveler car races off the traveler, you're still out the new car at the very least. Solution is to blow the jib if you can (upwind) and spread your arms and legs prior to impact with sails (I know, easier said than done).
The Infusions run a cleat to the base of the spinnaker pole, slightly easier on an aluminum pole than a carbon one. Make sure your pole doesn't twist or your traveler car will be at different positions depending on the tack. The holt-allen and I believe the new Harken self-tacker have spring-loaded adjustable end stop points fitted to the traveler itself, which is nice on the F18 but probably less used on the N20. They've also gone to a double Harken 16mm block on the traveler, for ~4:1 purchase on the jib; the newer sail cuts need to be cranked in tight to aide in pointing upwind.
Tracking system are much demanded in these days in every field of life .!
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