I'm working on refurbishing an '87 Prindle 19 with the older style rudders. Unfortunately, during any kind of wind the rudders kick up and won't lock back into place for anything.
Does anybody know how to tighten the rudder kickup system on this boat? Or are there replacement parts that need to be purchased and installed?
Also how do I adjust the rudder rake and the paralellism of the rudders?
Thank you to anybody who might be able to take a moment and share what they've learned about this cat.
Let me begin by saying that there could be
many
reasons why your rudders won't stay locked down. Smooth operation of this system rests on the ability for the lock bolt (the bolt with a groove in it that is on the rudders) to capture spring bolt (the bolt that is attached to the springs on the castings).
I would probably replace all the parts making up the rudder assembly. But you may want to start with supporting the stern of the boat, leaving enough clearance to bring the rudders down and looking as to how the capturing mechanism LINES up. Check for bent spring bolt, worn or crooked lock bolt, and other things that may catch your eye.
Also, check to see if the lock bolt (the one that sticks out of your rudder) has become loose. If you get the boat up where you can take a good look at how things operate, you will probably figure it out.
Rudder toe-in and toe-out is adjusted with the Tie bar end fitting. Rudder rake is adjusted with lock bolt.
Good luck.
Dave
Thank you for such a quick response. I'll get the cat up on the trailer ASAP, and get a closer look at what's going on.
Any suggestions on what components should be replaced? I'm guessing definitely the springs, the bolts that go across(?), and probably the lines also ...
Replacement of bolts may not be required to get a good lock. As the previous post mentioned, ensuring that all of the components are properly aligned is half the battle, but sometimes the problem is with the
travel
of the spring bolt. when you have the sterns in the air to inspect the workings of everything, make sure that the spring bolt is bearing down HARD into the groove of the lockbolt. That is to say... make sure it's not touching the ends of the slots in the castings. I had to elongate the slots in my castings with a round file to get this to happen, and it fixed my problems without replacing anything.
line replacement is probably a good idea, though. I found it helpful to spray everything down with McLube too.
Just to add to what these guys are saying.
Your rudder rake is adjusted by screwing the lock bolt which comes out of your rudder in or out. After getting it where you want it you screw down the nut to hold it in place.
As far as problems to look for I would first check your bolts to see if they are bent at all. If they are bent replace them first. When you have the boat up on a trailer and can play with the rudders you should not be able to kick the rudders up by simply pressing against them with your insole of you foot. It should take a good whack with your foot to get them to pop up. One thing I had luck with when my springs wouldn't hold was that I took stainless steel wire (like they use in the aircraft industry) and I pulled a couple loops of the springs together with the wire. This added the extra tension I needed to hold the rudders down. I would not recommend filing unless you are pretty sure of what you are doing.
Good Luck,
Mike Hill
H20 #791
I used to have a P19 with similar problems on one side. Replace the horizontal pin which engages the hook/claw bolt. These can bend reducing holding power of the hook bolt. You should try to get a super-hard pin, as some of the softer ones will bend in an upside-down U-shape because of the force of the springs.
You may also need to replace the claw bolt if worn. I modified my rudder (filed a larger hole) for the hook bolt so I could use a lock-nut (the kind with a nylon insert). I had previously had the nuts work loose.
If all else fails, also check out the pivot bole hole location and fit. These holes can become enlarged and sloppy from wear, so that the hook bolt cannot engage firmly. If this is a problem, fill the hole with epoxy and carefully drill a new one.
Finally, I broke a rudder casting once and replaced it with a new one. They were almost, but not exactly, identical! Specifically, the pivot hole in the new rudders was not in exactly the right place to fit my old casting. In this case, I had to fill in the old pivot hole with epoxy and drill a new one in a better position (like 1/2" away from the original). You may consider this as a last resort, after trying all other remedies, and much testing/observation of the rudder while on the trailer.
Sail fast and have fun,
Alan Thompson
I20 - San Diego
P.S. Write me if you have more questions/problems with the rudder
After doing all this it still may not work, because the angle of the hook bolt throat is so critical and small for such a crude and sloppy arrangement. My success with these was to use a not too worn hook bolt and bend the
hook
by small increments untill it held the correct amount. Dont overdo it, or it wont release at all. Check that the stainless washer behind the hook jam nut is there and seats the hook bolt good and square with the rudder. Make sure the spring ends are not catching in the slot in the casting, and stopping the bolt from dropping into the jaws of the hook (previously mentioned).
I figure holding the rudder halfway down and giving a sharp tug aft (after taking up the slop) should just be able to release it. That way its good for off the wind screaming. Lateral pressure on reaches seems to hold them in, cause they only seem to pop up down wind when its really hairy.