I was going to replace the gudgeons on my Tornado. My idea was just to attach the gudgeons above the old holes, but that wont work since the bolts will come in conflict with the old holes, no matter how I do. My new gudgeons will not fit into the old holes either. Do I need to rebuild the whole stern and drill up new holes? Is there any simplier/faster way?
Please help me, Im getting fed up staying on land...
Carl, I don't know exactly how your stern is put together but I will offer you the idea that popped into mind as soon as I read your post.
As far as I know, the gudgeons are bolted to a metal plate that is burried in the glass transom. The holes are drilled and taped in the plate to match the bolts used to attach the gudgeons.
How about adding a new set of metal plates, just in front of the exisiting plates? Now drill and tap through both the old and the new, in series. The exisiting plate my not get a good grip if the old holes are too close to the new holes, but the new plates will have the needed grip.
GARY
oh no! I didnt realize that a metalplate was baked into the glass. Youre sure on this? This will need more work than I had hoped for. Thanks for the tip, I guess Id better get going if I want to sail.
First, who built the boat and why not use original gudgeons?
Second how does the old and new gudgeons attach? For example bolts through the gudgeons and boat to a nut and washer on the inside or a bolt through the gudgeon to threads in the stern or screws that go from the inside of the boat to threads in the gudgeons.
If you have to use nonstandard gudgeons, fill the old holes with epoxy glass and use a backing plate on the inside of the boat (3/16 aluminum will work). It helps if you glue the backing plate to the inside of the hulls. Don't do this until you have everything done and bolted up, then unbolt the gudgeons and glue the backing plate.
If you use different gudgeons you will have to take care to maintain rudder alignment. Keep the holes in the new gudgeons as close to the old holes as possible.
Good luck
Its an mid 80's Sailcraft. The only reason were not using original gudgeons is that the new rudders wont fit the old gudgeons. We didnt want to buy marströms expensive ruddersystems so we went with Australian High Performance Catamarans instead.
Im not sure I understood this question about attachment. But there is a bolt going through the gudgeon and hull connecting with a washer and nut on the inside.
We will follow your instructions, they seem like a very good idea! Allthough, do the alu-plate really need to be that thick?
I think mantaining the rudder alignment wont be any problem, we will simply refer to the old holes.
You can also use jack nuts to secure the gudgeons if the backing plate is no longer useable. Check out:
You may have to search on "Jack Nuts". I am using these to attach the tramp track on my Prindle 18-2 and they should be tough enough to handle the stress of a gudgeon!
The thickness of the plate is a result of how bolting forces are transfered. The pressure created by a bolt does not extend far past the bolt head. Draw a 45 degree line from the edge of the bolt head through the backing plate to the boat. There is essentially no pressure on the boat past that point (the plate warps).
Bonding the plate to the boat helps some.
I just wanted to be sure we were not putting pressure on a weakened area.
The plate can be small. It only has to extend 1/4 in or so past the bolt head. You could even use aluminum fender washers (really thick washers) if you can find them