This is my first time replacing and packing bearing.
I bought LongRun Bearing Kits containing 2 cones, 2 cups, Seals & Cotters Pin.
(Also I bought a Fulton Bearing Life protector set with a grease gun fitting to replace the old cover and to ease the greasing of the wheels in the future. )
Now I am in the process of replacing the bearing on my trailer and I would like to know how one goes about removing and re-inserting the bearing caps. First off I assume the cap to be the chrome cone that the bearing rolls in. I think the kit instruction list this item as a cone, but call it a cap in the instruction procedure.
For the first wheel I didnt realize the caps were to be replaced and I simply removed the inner and out bearings, cleaned out the old grease, tapped in the inner seal and replaced the new grease packed bearings.
However at that point I realized I still had two leftover caps. So I started on the other wheel and did the same procedure except I tapped the outer cap out of the hub, hitting it side to side with a screwdriver and hammer. This was a slow a difficult procedure. I stopped at that point before I removed the outer cap because I was unsure of me method.
Reinstalling the cap is now the problem. I dont have any thing the same diameter the hit the cap solidly. What do people do to tap the cap into place? Also how far do the caps get tapped in? The out ones were close to the farthest point but not all the way in.
At this point I am thinking to take the hubs to a local shop and have the caps pressed in.
The last question is about the wheel I already finished. Should I go back and remove the old caps in that wheel too.
By the way, the old bearings seems good to me in terms of smooth turning and dirt free.
Thanks,
Mike
Norhtern or a trailer supply store may have the hubs for sale with the bearings alrlready installed for less than the new bearing plus shop labor to isntall them. Faster way out too.
Mike
you can use a small punch or find a piece of pipe,socket to to fit and drive the race in. Just drive the race in until it stops. Be carefull not to damage the part of the race that the bearing rides on. I would replace the races on both wheels since the beaings come as a set. I think you can buy drivers at an auto parts store.
use the old race as a tap with a large rubber mallet.
Thats what I used and it turned out fine.
I have done a number of bearings and always use the old race to install the new one. When doing so, put the older race in the same configuration as the old one, with the thickest end towards the hub, striking the thinner end with a hammer. (This configuration is important, as it facilitates removal with a hammer and chisle later. If you put the thin end in first, I'm not sure you would be able to remove it). You can put a block of wood over the old race and hit it in the center, or just strike the old race directly, alternating sides as you go. When the new race is all the way down, it will be obvious by the sound and "feel".
Bill Mattson
bearing race installation tools are pretty common. The simplest are basically a specific diameter steel head with a shaft that you strike with a mallot. The head is sized specifically for certain diameters. You should probably be able to loan one of these from an autoparts store like Advance or Autozone.
Thanks for all the ideas.
I think using the old race to tap the new one in should work and I will give a report to the outcome as soon as I finish (before Saturday so I can go sailing).
Mike