Trailer gut job for an A-cat

It's a relatively inexpensive 110V Century 140 wire feed MIG welder that I picked up on ebay for about $300 or $400 with a cart a few years ago. I upgraded it with a spindle adapter so I could run a big 10lb spool of wire (which lasts an impressive amount of time!). I then added a gas pack so I wouldn't need to use the flux core wire and am running an Argon/CO2 mix. I was pretty frustrated with this machine out of the box (actually, I thought my struggles were due to bad technique and a lack of skill) but I recently discovered that the distance between the wire tip and the end of the copper gas shroud was too far apart. After reducing the shroud length to get the tip closer to the opening of the shroud and closer to the material, it functioned properly and I could finally start refining my technique. This unit only has enough power to weld up to 12 gauge material but is suitable for most of the things I need it for. It would be nice to have a 220V model, though.

As far as technique, around that inside corner where the post and the plate met, I

walking the tip

which is something I learned from a youtube channel. This guy can do unbelievable things when melting metal and shares a great deal of knowledge on his channel about all kinds of welding. https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks

20160130_164537 by Jake Kohl, on Flickr

Walking the tip, or walking the cup?

I fool around with a 220V MIG myself <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Aaa! cup! see?, I'm no expert. <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

I just remembered that I forgot to see if I can lower my tailgate with that mast post where it is. I bet I can't. Crap.

Minor details... Looking good, Jake!

As for windage/mileage, just drag your trailers behind an RV. You won't get more than 7 mpg anyways, and you'll have a place to sleep!

Mike

meh, just cut out a section of your tailgate to clear the mast post.

This will work Receiver Hitch Extension

No need for that. I built it movable and attached with u-bolts in case it ever needed to move (and that's how most catamaran trailers are setup). I'll just rearrange the mast post, spare tire, and mobility wheel. I might re-evaluate the height of the mast post because it's moving further back - thankfully I haven't finished the top of it yet and it needs to get a little shorter as it moves back.

The mast is always a pain in the rear. We should just get rid of them and mount motors. WAY easier.

BLASPHEMER! (rent garments) OFF WITH YOUR HEAD!

All this talk of the trailers, and 8'6" beams.
Most of us have seen the Selsmeyers trailor, and Kurt Korte's also- both haul this beam width flat in the trailor- custom builds.
I'm amazed the seemingly low prices of some of those trailors that are linked here for sale!

Adding even a small support welded at the bottom will make the join much stronger - that is a long lever arm and is constantly vibrating / moving. You could make it large enough to also store the spare tire so that it serves a practical purpose as well as a structural one.

Mike, thanks. There is. I just hadn't taken a photo of it with it welded in place - it's why I made that bottom plate so long. You can kind-of see the lower brace here. It's some 1.5" angle iron.

20160227_143634 by Jake Kohl, on Flickr

Now going completely overboard (and having fun with the welding), I put a 10 degree angle at the top of the mast post so I can just square cut a piece of treated lumber and pad it to support the mast shape. The angle puts that lumber perpendicular to the mast when loaded. I also closed in a through hole through which the wood will be mounted and capped the top (since this will be painted and not galvanized...I can't paint the interior easily so it's easier just to seal it up).

20160227_143628 by Jake Kohl, on Flickr

20160227_144317 by Jake Kohl, on Flickr

20160227_144652 by Jake Kohl, on Flickr