HomeTrax wheel hubs??

CaptJulian, Sand is not a commodity in these parts, so we have little to no experience with it, which I know is bugging the hell out of all the beach launchers.

Captain Dave, One last shot and then I'm done. I say, "Hubs?...we don't need no stinking Hubs!" Not unless your planning on speeds in excess of 20 mph. How about using schedule 80 PVC between the wheels and PVC connectors (2 1/2" electrical size will fit your wheels) and a length of galvanized conduit inside, pinned in place with S/S bolts. With a little paint or inhibitor here and there will be relatively rust free.

I think I know why Capt Dave wants to use the hubs. He would like to be able to use wheels that are made for hubs. Instead of hubs maybe we should call them adaptors? Am I getting your messge Dave?

Is Captain Julian in Massachusettes? If so, it's about time you got on this forum

You`ve got it now Nick. But, hubs are hubs. Rims and wheels are a separate deal. The proper name for what I need is "hub" - not to be confused with a rim or a wheel. Any search for a "hub" will illustrate what I need - only I want it in plastic. Steel hubs are heavy, made of metal and have metal bearings. Even a cheap metal hub is made to support many, many hundreds of pounds more than a set of catrax requires - not to mention the corrosion factor.

Flatlander,

You are correct about the hubs regarding the speed issue. However, I already have some nice wheels (which I want to use) and what I need is a 4-bolt hub to attach my wheels (with 4-bolt rims) to an appropriate axle. I do not believe your design will allow a 4-bolt rim to be secured to an axle. Plus, it all sounds a little heavier than necessary. I will be using aluminum for my axle.

Dave

Dave,

I already have a simple plastic hub design that will be easy to install on an aluminum hollow shaft or pipe. If you are interested send me a PM and maybe we can work something out. I would need some dimentions but it could be done fairly easily.

Here is another option for all of you Do It Yourselfers.
web page

And here's another homemade idea.

OK, so the previous photo is really small. Let's try this one.

The nice thing about the wheel I'm talking about is, it is the wheel and the hub complete with bearing surface. Alloy, no rust.

This article will explain how to make the wheels. VERY simple, don't need fancy hubs. They work great, just don't drill the extra holes. Use some silicone around washers and connectors. If you have questions call me.

http://www.geocities.com/mec_coleman/tip13.htm

Doug Snell
281-326-2702
dsnell4@houston.rr.com

I contacted the owner of the funky beach wheel design in the photos I posted earlier and he was happy to share his ideas with us.

1. Holes are drilled at either end of the drum for the pole.

2. Cut circular pieces of the plywood with holes in them as well. This is for the added support on the drum.

3. Slip the pole through the drum and center it.

4. Take a 4" long piece of PVC pipe or fitting and slip it over the pole. Slide it down the pole till it has a 1/4" gap between the PVC and the drum. Screw the PVC to the pole with four screws.

5. Repeat the last step for the other side.

6. Now set your Hobie on the pole and drill two holes - one at each pole end outside of where the hobie is sitting. This is for the rope that will be attached and then looped over the hulls and tied back to the bar, securing the Hobie to the dolly.

7. Lift the hobie and off it will go. For added weight on the soft sand add water to the barrel. Not a lot but enough that the barrel will roll instead of sliding and becoming a plow.

Hobiegary or Doug Snell,

I have an older cat trax with the one piece hubless Firestone tire/wheel that is no longer manufactured. The 25 year old tires are split. I'm thinking of using my 2" axle bar and your syrup barrel wheels (brother-in-law works for Coca Cola). The lids or ends of these barrels must be really thick or it would appear that the rolling stress would crack them around the axle penetrations. Your plastic washer seems more like a bearing surface for the couplers. Are these barrels really thick or did you reinforce them somehow?

Well...after all the hullaballoo regarding how I was going to scratch build hubs so as to use some new turf tires that I already have, I broke down and bought two of these wheels (see link and/or attachment) for about $80 total. They just arrived and I am quite impressed - especially for the money. They are 12 pounds each with a huge 2 foot diameter and rated for 600 lbs each. With these wheels, I can now simply go with a 2 inch aluminum axle and some lock collars or cut some delrin bushings for better roll and use a narrower axle.

In either event, this was the simplest, neatest way for me to come up with a good set of Hometrax for about $100 total.

Now (unfortunately) I have a few nice (brand new) turf tires/rims that I`ll have to find another purpose for...oh well.

Dave

http://www.premiermaterials.com/Premiermaterials/dock_wheels.htm

Captain_Dave,

I've been reviewing this discussion on the Home Trax with some interest and I was wondering if you ever finished your Home Trax project. If so, could you please give an update? By the way, nice job on the H16 restoration. That is one beautiful boat.

Bulldawg

BullDawg,

I am sorry to say that due to a death in my immediate family I have put all projects on hold.

Perhaps in a few months I will finish this project (and a few others). As it stands now, I am not far from completion. When I finish, I will be happy to post details and photos.

Thanks for the interest,

Dave

My condolences, Dave.

Dear Mary,

Thank you,

Dave

Captain_Dave,
I too, want to express my condolences to you and your family on your loss.

Sincerely,
Bulldawg

Here is what I came up for a hub design using a machineable plastic. I can't think of the name of though. GMHW something like that.

That's exactly how Cat Trax makes thier wheel bearings. The just use the axel and the wheel as the races. The plastic is Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene. The stuff is great for applications like this. This is the same material they use too.

Guys/Gals:

Danny did a REAL good job of taking the ideas I found and taking it to the next level! $125 and NICE!!
http://dgaleana2.proboards56.com/index.cgi?board=tips&action=display&thread=1143785090

Way to go Danny.

Doug Snell
Hobie 17
Soon to be Mystere 4.3
www.tcdyc.com

Those look great! Anyone have any working experience with those wheels? How do they do in soft sand? How durable?

Matt:

Go on the site. Register and ask Danny. He is giving them a try with his 14 and Randy's Getaway.

Doug

I too have been working on a similar design with those exact wheels which I posted earlier in this thread. However, I found out this past weekend that the materials and axle diameters (at least the 1.5 inch) mentioned in the above link allow way too much flex to be useful for the purpase of moving catamarans. It looks good, but the flex is a problem. I believe I already have a low cost solution and will post back within the next few weeks with photos.

Also, I found that simple ABS piping is not good as a bearing or bushing. It doesn`t glide very well - even worse when it warms up. I found that nylon or similar poly material glides much better.

Dave

Has anyone seen these ?

Those are half the price of what I found.

As for bearing material, use UHMW. It is very "slick" and very durable.

Matt,

Nice find on those wheels. I searched high and low for a suitable and affordable air-filled wheel. Clearly you had more success than I in sourcing the part. And I searched a lot!

One question though. What is the hub/rim configuration of that wheel? This entire thread was started in order to solve the "hub" issue - which ,as it turns out, is no minor problem unless one wants to use the standard metal trailer hub assemblies (4 or 5 bolt configuration, heavy and rust prone). This is why I went with the plastic wheels with the 2 inch diameter bore as It is much easier to convert over to our purposes while avoiding metal parts.

After checking that link again I cannot seem to find any info on the hub/rim for that tire. I get the impression the price is for the tire only and a rim would be a separate purchase of the standard ATV setup/configuration ie. 4-bolt hub. Its not too clear from looking at the link.

Dave

Good question on the hubs. I emailed the supplier this morning and will report my findings. The photo shows a hub but I have a feeling that they are just selling the tire. I think the standard ATV wheel has a 4 bolt pattern. I might end up machining a hub out of UHMW. I need some more lathe and mill experience anyways.

I figured the rim would cost extra. That makes the combo a little more spendy. Still a lot cheaper than buying the wheels from someone like roleez. Of course the roleez wheels would be a lot closer to being functional with the hub and bearings already done.

Dave:

I used 1 1/2 inch pipe from a electrical supply place. EMT I think, but not sure of the exact name. I haul my 17 with no problem. Send Danny a PM he is trying them on a 14 and a Getaway. That should be a good test.

Doug Snell
Hobie 17
Soon to be Mystere 4.3
www.tcdyc.com

Hi all,

As promised, I will be posting pics of my completed Hometrax. I`ve already been asked to build a set for someone else, so I may be getting busy for a while.

Since this thread is getting so long, I will make a new post - keyword " HomeTrax"

cheers,

Dave
Dave