ok, i need some major help with tacking whenever i tack i get stuck facing striaght into the wind, can anyone give me some tips and advice on what to do? should i make large swooping tacks?
go to the TheBeachcats.com web site check the archives of the "On the Wire" ezine. Some where within, is an explanation that worked wonders for me.
do you know the name of the article? i cant seem to find it
If you can't find any other postings on the forums, here's a few pointers as I understand it.
Make sure you have at least some speed going into the tack. When turning the boat don't slam the tiller across, that will stall you, but make it a smooth turn. As you go into the turn you must let at least 2 feet of rope through the main sheet as if you keep the mainsail tight in it just keeps you into wind. As with the jib, keep it there for a while and let it backwind, this will push the front of the boat around. That should help you get through every time.
If you do get stuck, then push the sail out to get a bit of drive in the sail which will start you sailing backwards. Reverse the rudders which will bring the front around, once it's turned straighten up the rudders, sheet in and you should be OK.
Failing this, have a look at the numerous information on the web, I'd suggest looking at the learn to sail section at the website www.hobiecat.com to begin with.
Cheers
Schobiedoo
Two articles that will help you get the boat around.
Sail Your 16 with an Attitude, by Tami Shelton
and
The Roll Tack, by David Hall
Ok first of all what most sailors dont seem to understand is the back winding the jib also slows your tack down. When you go into a tack you let the jib off a little to say about 12 inchs off normall which should be just before the jib hits the mast. This helps the boat go into the tack quicker. If you dont do this the jib back winds to early and just wants to make you reverse the boat out of the tack when your main wants to go forwards through the tack. Fun work hey.
Make sure your main is all the way on untill the wind hits the other side because the main makes you bear into the wind there fore helping the tack. Also the smooth tiller is always the best thing to get her through.
well have fun and just get practice!!
I have had my cat for about 3 months and had exactly the same problem. I really seem to have it sorted now. It makes the sailing so much more enjoyable. I downloaded the "Hobie university Manual". you will find it at www.hobieclass.com. Its a great link, but its a Big file, (about 1.4m) so be patient. It has Rick White tacking sequence, plus a whole lot of interesting reading about rigging, etc. We are flying through our tacks now, and they are not feeling rushed. Makes the day so much more enjoyable when you dont stall.
Good luck with the turns
DaveB
It was "the roll tack " by david hall. the link is listed here by someone else.That article brought it all together for me.
so, are you sailing a 14 or a 16....as for me, I went from a 16 to a na 5.8, to a h20, have sailed 6.Os, etc....now Im on a h14, and it is the toughest boat to succesfully tack. The best thing to do is practice!!!!I mean, go out and tack, tack, tack, tack.......also practice backing up..because if ya screw up a tack, ya gotta be able to back up quickly to turn the boat....if you are racing, blowing a tack will cost ya about 75 yards..................t
thx for all the feedback, ill read those articles. And i sail a h14 so i cannot have the help of the jib. Also i live on a lake so i gotta tack alot..i guess ill just have to practice.
the hobie class page helped alot i think part of the problem also is becuase my rudders are not aligned so this slows me down more. i'll fix them over the winter.
hey, ya should be able to align your rudders in about 10 minutes........t
I just adjusted my rudders on my 14 over the weekend. Quick job. I took the rudders off the boat (for leverage on loosening up the adjuster bolt), sprayed wd40 on the bolt and used a drill with a flat head bit. Do not loosen the bolt all the way. I did that. Didn't know there was a nut inside the crossbar (was easy to put back together in case you go to far). Just loosen it up until the arm moves freely in and out of the crossbar. Popped the rudders back on the boat, measured for slight toe in and then tightened the bolt back up (used drill again to get tight). It took me longer to take the rudders off and put back on then it did to adjust them. Just my recent experience.
how much of the arm goes into the corss bar? necuase the rudders are offset alot, like 3-5 inches.
Are the upper casting and tiller arms pointing to the inside? If not the rudders are on backwards. This is about the only thing that would create that much offset.
umm im not sure, ill take a look tomorrow, asnd they arent on backwards becuase i looked at a picture of a rudder and they were the same
Are you sure they are't backwards because i have done this one once and its a pain. Im curious how old was the picture because the new hobie 16/14 have straigh arms.
wow thanks alot for all the help, i went out today sailing on my lake and i hardly had any trouble tacking, i only had to pump the rudders a little..wich is alot better then before. Also i found it very hard to hold the main sheet when sailing. Is the a block that cleats the main sheet while sailing? can someone show me plz.
I think your having the same problem as me. When i first sailed my boat i had heaps of problems with holding the main sheet and well we finished the nationals with all the sailors saying we're so weak and soft. We came in and one of the sailors found out i didn't have the rached on and it was broken. I went and bough a new block and i could hold on to it all day without any trouble. check if your bock is working properly and if its not that something is seriously wrong!!
whell theres a switch, and when itin one pasision the block clicks and in the others it doesnt. The block does not grab the rope at all. Maybe it is broken
What you want is for the bottom block to click when you pull the main sheet on and when you release the rope the claws in the middle pully should try and grab hold of the rope and not spin with it. The top block is just a block so that you can get more of a advantage, it doesn't have a clicky thingy. If the bottom block clicks and when you release it it doesn't gip and the pulls spins then yes you have a broken block. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the help. 3 solid tacks in a row!
going back to the problem with my blocks... When i pull the sheet the pull does not click and it locks.. but when i let go it does click and the weel spins. Is it backwards? Also the rope seems to small to grab in the grooves of the wheel, will it just grab when it is under preassure? or do i need a bigger rope?