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Interchanging old rudder castings with EZ Loc

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(@mystere50xl)
Posts: 863
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Topic starter
 
[#27770]

I have a '98 Wave with the old-style rudder castings. I also have a set of EZ-Loc rudders with the plastic castings and the longer crossbar. I want to be able to swap back and forth between the old style castings and the EZ-Loc system. Is anyone else doing this successfully?

The old-style pintles are too short and I see there's a new part number for the EZ Loc pintles. If I change to the new pintles:
1) will they match the transom bolt holes exactly?
2) Will they be the right distance vertically or will I have to re-drill?
3) Can I use the old style castings on the new style pintles?

The set of 4 costs about $100 from the dealer! Does anyone have an extra set of the longer EZ Loc pintles they want to sell cheap?


 
Posted : February 14, 2011 8:52 pm
mmiller
(@mmiller)
Posts: 1237
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1) Yes
2) See #1
3) Good question... Never tried that one.


 
Posted : February 15, 2011 11:07 am
(@_removed-account)
Posts: 15030
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I am of the impression that the old style are more desirable for racing, and it is common practice to upgrade the rudders themselves to the newer EPO2.


 
Posted : February 15, 2011 11:16 am
(@sundance1933)
Posts: 912
Member
 
Originally Posted by mmiller
1) Yes
2) See #1
3) Good question... Never tried that one.

The older rudders, in my case, H20 housings fit fine on the newer pintels. You just need the proper bushing inserts. I also have made spacers to fit above the housing at the lower position to keep the rudder from bouncing up and down.

Dave, you must be very careful in removing the old pintel screws. If they break, you will have a real issue. Trust me...I know.

There is an aluminum dogbone moulded inside the hull that the SS screws go into. Perhaps Matt Miller can offer tips on removing the old screws.


 
Posted : February 15, 2011 11:44 am
(@mystere50xl)
Posts: 863
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Quote
1) Yes
2) See #1
3) Good question... Never tried that one.

.
Thanks. So the pintle replacement is not a problem, except for the cost, that's great to know.

If someone has access to 2 boats where one has the old metal castings and the other has the new EZ Loc, would you please try to hang the old castings on a boat which uses the new EZ Loc system? See if it fits OK and if it does, see whether the keeper pin or clip would function to hold the old castings on in case of a capsize.

Doesn't SOMEONE out there swap between the two systems?


 
Posted : February 15, 2011 12:23 pm
(@mystere50xl)
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Quote
Dave, you must be very careful in removing the old pintel screws. If they break, you will have a real issue. Trust me...I know.

You are so right! I pounded with a hand impact driver til my hands hurt and succeeded in loosening only one of eight of the screws of the lower pintles. How can you get those things out? Is this hopeless? I don't want to drill all 12 screws (upper and lower, larboard and starboard).


 
Posted : February 16, 2011 9:20 am
(@sundance1933)
Posts: 912
Member
 
Originally Posted by David Parker
How can you get those things out? Is this hopeless? I don't want to drill all 12 screws (upper and lower, larboard and starboard).

The only way I know is to have the right tools and hope for the best. Once the screw head breaks off, you have one opportunity to try and dill through the screw shank without the drill wandering to the side. You need to use a brand new bit about half the diameter of the srew. Once you have that hole drilled, you can progressively enlarge it so as to take the correct size tap.

Here is where it really gets tough. If you break the tap, you are dead in the water.

If things realy go south, you will have to fit hatch covers and use through bolts. That isn't entirely bad, just not as neat.

BTW, you asked about swapping back and forth...once you have the new pintles, it will work fine.

You saw my old style rudders mounted on the new style pintles.

Good luck Dave.


 
Posted : February 16, 2011 12:58 pm
(@edgarapoe)
Posts: 3222
Member
 

Also, I have heard of reverse drill bits. Supposedly as you are drilling the SS screw CCwise, it is heating the metal and quite suddenly when deep into the screw it will break loose and screw out.
Problem is trying to find such a bit.
Rick


 
Posted : February 18, 2011 4:37 pm
(@mikesailor)
Posts: 423
Member
 

Here is a supplier I have used for several orders. They have good prices and service and the left hand drill bits you want are here:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200384105_200384105


 
Posted : February 18, 2011 8:07 pm
(@sundance1933)
Posts: 912
Member
 
Originally Posted by Mike Fahle
Here is a supplier I have used for several orders. They have good prices and service and the left hand drill bits you want are here:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200384105_200384105

Right Dave. Left hand drill bits are a good idea, but usually these screws are so corrodeded in that they still won't back out. Still, I agree with Mike and Rick. Well worth a try.


 
Posted : February 18, 2011 10:42 pm
(@mystere50xl)
Posts: 863
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Thanks for all the ideas. So far I have not been able to loosen any of the 12 pintle screws, not one. I may try drilling them out but for now I'll go with the old castings. I spent some times shimming the original non-EZ Loc TheMightyHobie18 castings and now they are really sweet. I had a set of H20 blades that are like new, not EPO but near perfect. I'll stick with those for a while.

Next project is the trailer. That's another story for another thread.


 
Posted : February 18, 2011 11:02 pm
(@edgarapoe)
Posts: 3222
Member
 

Trailers have been discussed previously, and very thoroughly, I might add.
My solution to all trailer problems has been to make flatbeds out of any trailer. It doesn't take an expensive frame to do it.
I mounted two 4x8x3/4" plywood on the frame and covered with carpet -- our local carpet store throws out carpet every friday -- That way you can load any size boat, or you can use it for hauling other stuff as well


 
Posted : February 19, 2011 9:07 am
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