I have read from Rick's post that raking the mast aft as far as possible helps load up the rudders and generate better windward lift. What is the part number of the 10 hole forestay bridle connector? Do you know if the phillips screws holding the "chainplates" have any backing to them? I'd hate to unscrew the chainplate and have the backing plate fall into the void, but I would need to get the chainplates further down to get more mast rake.
In a related question, what size inspection port now comes on the newer Waves? I have an old wave that has no port. Standing the hulls on end to drain them is no fun.
Dan
Here is the the adjuster:
http:/
And here is the port:
http:/
The backing plate should be inbedded, but there is no reason to lower the chain plates. When you go to the 10 hole adjuster, that will rake your mast aft. I simply take out the sidestay adjusters and connect directly with shackles.
This will probably still allow the rig to be slack, but it should be. That way, when sailing off the wind, the sail goes out to the sidestay and because that sidestay is slack the sail maintains a good shape. Otherwise it inverts where a tight sidestay would be.
Rick
I just looked at a new Wave and I didn't see any ports, except for the drainage holes. If you are going to install your own port, what would be the best location along the hull? I assume the centre, and that you should you always install one on each hull and try to balance any load.
Ours have hatches halfway between the rear beam and stern.
Rick
Pavane and Dan,
The older Waves all have an inspection port on each side, halfway between the aft beam and the transom. The newer Waves do not have them, but that is probably the best place to install inspection ports, because water in the hulls tends to collect at the lowest point, down in the skegs.
Also, if I don't have help to lift the bows to drain through the drain holes, it is easy for me to tilt up the bows with the beach wheels and bail/sponge out the water through the inspection ports.
It would be really annoying to not have inspection ports so you can see whether there is water in there or not.
Thanks for all of the replies. I currently have sidestays that have no adjustment ability. They terminate in a loop at the mast and come down to a short connector that overlaps itself and needs to be pinned with a split ring so as to not fall out. Short of getting now side stays with adjustment, they will be a bit slack. How slack it will be, I do not know. I am currently sailing on the second to last hole on the 7 hole adjustor.
Mary, how big is that hatch on your wave?
Dan
The wires on the Waves are not always the same when they come from the factory.., depending on the year.
Best way to measure rake is use your halyard and move forward to the bow and measure from the top of the mast to the bow. Then, holding that point, move aft and see where it would land on the stern.
That is typical in any boat to measure rake.
Slack is pretty slack. Stan Woodruff, one of the top sailors in the country, likes it so he can grab the leeward sidestay, turn it, and it will almost be perpendicular.
Rick
Wow! That is slack. I can no doubt go to the ten hole and still be fine with the slack. It will make it mighty easy to step the mast as well.
BTW--what size hatch should I get? Should I go with the curved one or the flat one? Have you heard of anyone putting a big square one between the seats in order to use the boat as a bit of a camp cruiser?
I don't know what size my ports are. I also don't know whether they are flat or contoured. I'll get answers later when I am over at the club.
As far as putting big hatches between the seats for storage, a guy in Canada did that in both hulls so he and a friend could do a beach-hopping cruise on Lake Ontario. They were able to store a huge amount of stuff. I had a big story about their trip in my magazine several years ago. Sorry, but I can't remember the name of the type of hatch he installed.
Right, on the slack I sail it about that slack as well and have won both the East Coast Championships and the North Coast Championships and am presently leading the Wave National Series Championships. All with a loose rig.
On the hatch, I believe they are flat. Just use a lot of sealant if the curve is too much and don't tighten down the screws too much or the hatch will be hard to get in and out.
Never tried the curved.
I believe we have 5" covers.
Rick
If it were me, I would try the contoured ones.
Look at the picture in the bent bow update post. That's a 5 inch contour port. Slight gap at the center from a little too much contour but probably fits better than the flat one. Turns fine. I just went out and laid a straightedge across the deck behind the rear beam and it's got more radius than in front of the front beam where I put my port. I would go for the contoured port. From Rick's store:
http:/
Tom