Rick--what's your wave trailer setup again?

I just read both Rick and Mary's response...are you using an aluminum trailex as a base or a utility trailer?

Dan

I now have three trailers set up with flatbeds and use them for any boat I have to haul: Nacra 6.0, Taipan, Wave, Sunfish, etc. and often use them to haul other stuff around, non boating.
Two are trailex and one is steel.
Rick

Do you start with a cat trailer and then throw the ply deck on? Or did you start with the utility trailer and use it to drag around the boats?

My father in law is in his 50 and has a bit of a bad back. I'm trying to get him on the water quicher and easier so he only has to step the mast, raise the sail and go! Any hints for easiest trailer setup? Flatbed and cattrax? do you trailer with the mast in one piece?

Dan

I take off all the stuff that cat trailer have mounted on them for the boats and get it down to a bare frame. Then I get two 4x8x3/4 marine plywood. Heavily paint them to insure against rotting, then screw them onto the frame.
On some trailers the fenders are higher than the frame. In this case you have to use 2x2 on top of the frame, then screw to the 2x2s.
Finally, go to your local carpet store (ours is best on Friday) and go to their dumpster and grab a bunch of used carpet and either glue it or tack it down.
If I am moving a boat locally, I lower the mast and let it cradle between the rudder blade and the tiller arm, move it forward so the bob is not sticking out too far, and tie the mast. That keeps the rudder from wobbling and wearing out parts, and secures the mast.
Then, upon getting to the beach, just scoot the mast aft, slip it onto the mast base ball and raise it. You are ready to sail.
When we go longer distances, we usually take at least two boats and often three.
If two, I have 2x4 carpeted pieces and simply load one on top of the other. Bottom one needs to take off the rudders, but upper the rudders stay on.
I never take the masts apart. Usually just put them on the 2x4s under the top boat and tie them to the wood.
If three boats, I load the first one upside down on the edge of the trailer, the next one nests into that one on the other side of the trailer, and then load the top boat as if only two boats. Best to load the two topped boats to the left side of the trailer (the high side of the crown in the road.)
Rick

Thanks for the detailed information!

Dan

Rick,

My trailer for my new to me H 18 is ready for this setup and I'd love to get it done prior to going to the Texas 200. I'd rather not risk damage to the boat with the hard rubber v blocks designed for keels of powerboats. When you use the 2x2's to you go horizontally (perpendicular to the direction of travel) to raise the square tubing? I'll have to do that for sure as my fenders are higher than the flat area. do you allow the 3/4" ply to sag to match the hull profile of the boats being towed or make it more rigid by adding additional crossmembers.

Thanks again for your help.

Dan

Hmmm. been a while, but I believe I ran them across the trailer. Yes, I did.
Rick

Thanks,

I think that would allow the ply to sag to match the hull profile too.

Dan

Having looked at a wave recently, while at the dealership, I don't think the hard rubber blocks would really damage it....but I could be wrong.

As I'm looking into a newer boat, and have considered a wave, this might be something worth knowing.

The great thing about the flat bed is I can load four Waves on it, one Wave on it, a Nacra 6.0NA on it, an F16 on it, a hot tub that is supposed to be delivered to the ferry dock here at Put-in-Bay on it, trash to the dump, and the list goes on.
I have now converted all of my trailers to flat beds and no longer have to adjust in or out the cradles, arms or anything else.
Best idea since slice bread. <img src=

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Rick

For a Wave trailer, I recently purchased a small 4x8 open utility trailer from Menard's for $500 and put four 7 foot planks of wood decking across the top of it (front, back, 1/3 and 2/3 way between). Actually, to match the slight rocker of the hulls, I put a double thickness on the front. And I put one plank vertically across the back edge, to give the boat something better to run into. Then I used cheap marine carpet (also from Menard's) to cover the

arms

that stick out beyond the trailer. The boat slides easily onto the planks, and rides nicely above the trailer. Just to make sure to boat couldn't move sideways, I cut up the leftover deck pieces to make 45 degree chock-blocks and attached them to the planks, at the inside of the hulls. I used one big bolt on each side of each plank, so they're easily removed, for use as a utility trailer again. The trailer has a mesh floor, so I can bungee down my rudders, sail bag, life jacket, etc... The comp-tip slides in from the front, so Bob is over the tongue, and the metal mast section gets bungee'd to the planks between the hulls. The Wave is balanced on the wheels, so it's as easy to move as if it were on cat trax. Works Great! I'll post photos if anyone wants.

yes, I'd like to see a pic!

Me too!

Here's my set up.

I remembered the middle chock-block is 45 degrees; the others are 30 degrees to match the hull shape better.

With my boat on it.

I wish the trailer tongue was a little longer, but that's another project.

Put the beach wheels upside down on top of the front end of the hulls, and that will help to balance out the weight.

Those actually aren't my beach wheels; they just happened to be laying there when I snapped the photo. But the height worked out just right for me to slide the boat back onto them, and roll it down to the water. For moving around the parking lot, the trailer was balanced well enough that I could just grab the Wave's rear crossbar and push it, as if it was on the beach wheels. But if I had beach wheels, putting them on the front would be good for holding the trailer down onto the hitch; it may a little too light on the tongue weight now.

Another alternative here since I only haul one boat and some fishng kayaks. I got a good chassis at an estate sale. Had Maypop tires but I got it home OK. Added new hubs, lights, tires plus spare, shortening the tongue and added cross arms and I'm in business for about $375 total. The cross arms are scrap street sign posts I got from the city public works dept., 2

galvanized with holes every 2

which cuts a lot of weight.