Tiller extension options

I am not sure how you feel about going with the cheap way out but an aluminuim paint stick works well and it makes it extendable if you need it. Also alot of the F16 guys use conduit.

Buy the connections and then just make the extension. You can even add a cool paint job.

That is a good idea. I may end up going that route. Thanks for the suggestion.
Jim

Where are you located, I actually have two things that might help you.

I have a few extra of the connections that I would basically give to you for the cost of shipping, also I have an old aluminium extension that I managed to break, I had to buy a new one because it is now to short to allow me to go all over the boat. But for you it would work.

It still works fine and the broken end is covered by duct tape right now but you could add some kind of grip.

If you are interested in any of this just send me a PM on here.

HI Jim,
Here is the part you need: http://store.catsailor.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jmnpkpmrc8
You cannot mount it under the tiller bar as it won't swing from side to side.
On top would also cause problems as you have pointed out. So, put it on top but angled slightly forward, enough that allows the tiller to lay on the deck without stressing the Yoke Assembly.
In doing so, howeever, you will not be able to drop the tiller off the back of the boat (which is good) as that would cause the same stress you are concerned about.
For the actual tiller, just go to a local hardware store and get an aluminum tube the size you want.
Good luck,
Rick

Thanks Rick. That part and the hinge, all I will need to find is a lightweight pole of some sort.
I am guessing that the lightest pole I can find would be best, to minimize any stress to the crossbar, particularly when dropped off the rear as you pointed out. That is why I will try to avoid an extendable. I found carbon fiber tubing, but that stuff is pricy!

I will post results once I do it.

Appreciate the tips!

I have the wings or whatever on my wave. I got a cheap $5.00 windshield cleaner that telescopes, cut it off and drilled a hole in the crossbar and mounted the thing. When i sit on the backrest i can extend the tiller. when i come on the tramp shorten it up. Cheap and effective.

I don't think you're s'posed to sit on that backrest. <img src=

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For tiller extensions on old style tillers.., or even the new rudders, take a look at the following article. This was the system used on Shark Cats for many years and maybe still on many of them.
http://www.catsailor.com/waves/superwave_overall.html
Rick

I just made a (double) tiller extension out of PVC conduit using a

flexible elbow

in the middle, clamped to the middle of the tiller crossbar. The result is similar to the arrangement in Rick's link, but each side is independent.

I used 3/4

conduit because it matches the crossbar diameter, and 1/2

seemed too flimsy. The

flexible elbow

is a single item, next to the rigid conduit elbows on the store shelf. I used two pairs of the plastic conduit hangers (side-by-side & back-to-back) for the clamp, and I put solid caps on the ends. I paid about $13.00 total for all the components, including nuts, bolts and star washers at Lowe's.

I made each side 4 feet long (sticks out 1 foot beyond the tiller arm) and put a ball-bungee on each side, to hold the un-used half snug to the crossbar (out of the way). The

flexible elbow

includes threaded couplings, so you can unscrew the poles for storage (or IWCA regattas, where extensions are prohibited).

With the short EZ-Lock tillers, I really felt restricted to the back corner of the boat. Now I can move up or hike out as much as I want.

Here's a photo of my scheme.

Note the ball-bungees to hold the poles up to the tiller crossbar; you can just slide each one to the middle when you're on that side, rather than disconnect it.

Another Photo

And another

Wow, that is a pretty hefty-looking tiller! Seems like overkill for such a little boat that has very neutral helm.

One comment:
An advantage of the new rudder system with the tillers higher and back farther is that the helmsperson can also get back farther (back UNDERNEATH the tiller) on a reach, and therefore go faster and keep the bows up. Your extension will effectively be a bar that prevents you from doing that.

Actually, there's still plenty of room to get underneath it, and the extra foot sticking out to the side lets you hike out flatter once you're back there. The flexible elbow lets you swing it wherever you need: up, down, fore, aft. You can always just push it out of the way, if you don't need it.

But you're right about the

heft

. I could have gone with the 1/2

conduit, but I liked the feel of the 3/4

, since it matched the crossbar. The extra weight does tend to pull down on the tillers when they're raised, however.

Very clever! I like the doubled C clips to attach to the tiller. I would have used hose clamps but your idea solves any rusting issues and the need for a rubber piece to keep the hose clamps from scratching the tiller paint. Is the flexible section in the middle just flexible conduit? uhh are you an electrician?? ;~}

Yes, it is flexible conduit, but it's a pre-made piece with the end fittings already attached. I'm not an electrician, just a part-time tinkerer. I went to Lowe's and started looking around at what they had, and how I could put things together.

With the new rudder system, the tiller is behind the sheets and a conventional extension could have been used. The reason I had a tiller out each side was because on the older rudder system the tiller was ahead of the sheets.
Rick

I just wanted to see what I could come up with, that didn't require drilling holes, was cheap, and was a little different. I really like the way it turned out.

But I have to take it off for this weekend's Wave Midwest Championship, right?

Right. If us women don't get to use one, neither can you. <img src=

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Hey, fine by me if you use one! <img src=

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How about an arm extension instead? You know, one of those pistol-grip long-reach tong things? I'm not sure how well it would hold onto the crossbar, though.

You won't be saying that after you have been racing Waves for a while. NOT allowing tiller extensions is one thing that usually benefits male sailors when racing against women sailors.

I'll just be happy to race against other Waves!

Here are a few photos from a recent Portsmouth race, of me leading the keelboats around the course. Sorry for the quality; they're scans of low-res print-outs. You can tell I'm using my tiller extension.

Looks kind of scary rounding that mark with all those big boats aiming at you. <img src=

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You got that right! And those big boats make big holes in the wind, so I had to stay out of their wind shadows, or I really would get run over!

Hey, check this out! The Indy Car teams stole my tiller extension idea!

I never even realized an Indy Car needed a tiller extension, but we saw these in several garages, when the Wave Midwest participants went to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway on Friday. The mechanic working by the right front tire is a member of the Eagle Creek Sailing Club.

Okay, well maybe it's a part of the measurement jig they use to set up the cars...

I really like IndyWave's approach, but I took the more traditional looking tiller route.

Basically mimics the setup of that on a Getaway, but at a fraction of the cost.

I have been sailing with my 'home-made' tiller for a few weeks now, and I can safely say it is worth the effort. I love having the ability to sit in different locations, ie farther foward when running, or light air sailing. One comment I will add, when sailing in really wild wind conditions, say where you are sitting pretty much under the tiller to keep the bows up, then you may opt to strap the tiller ext in place and just use the tiller as it was intended.
But my concerns about 'stress' on the crossbar seem to be unfounded. It works out great. The only issue I have is when the rudders are raised, the tiller extension must be flopped off towards the stern, ball lock bungeed as was suggested, or left to rest on the rudder housing. If not, the hinge tends to bind only slightly on the crossbar causing some minor scratching. This is due to the extreme difference between the up vs down postion of the crossbar.
Not a biggie though.

I began by mounting my crossbar upside down, see the pic, brought the rudders down, and postioned and drilled the hole for the hinge 5 to 10 degrees forward.

Again, here is a materials list for those who wish to try:
Hobie standard hinge p/n 10532010
yoke p/n 3205 ($16 for these two parts)
soft grip 3206 (from page 23 of cat, fits perfectly on the 1/2

cpvc)
(if you want to save the $9 of this Hobie grip, then opt for a 30cent CPVC cap <img src=

alt=

/> )
60

length of 1/2

cpvc (I bought mine at Lowe's for less than $2) leave it at this length,
3' or 4' length of 1/2

wood dowel (sanded slightly, and pounded into pvc to stiffen)
a little urathane glue like 'marine' Goo to glue on the grip.

Here it is with rudders up

And rudders down while underway...