1182 ......'Twice Shy'

Another shot of the damage.....

you can see a gap between the bottom alloy tube and the centre arm, the force has sprung the alloy well away from the centre arm to a point where the philips-head bolt on that side broke and fell off, Bolac owes me a bolt <img src="<>/smirk.gif" alt="smirk" title="smirk" height="15" width="15" />

underside view....

I also added another plate to assist in holding it together seeing I didn't have another bolt to replace the missing one
<img src="<>/mad.gif" alt="mad" title="mad" height="15" width="15" />

missing rivets that were replaced after race 3 are again missing, you can also see the damage to the glass covering on the timber rudder from race 1

This has been an ongoing issue since day one....

Initally I was sheering the bolts that held the bottom pintels in place, so I simply added a backing plate to the inside of the transoms and this did for a while work.....

then it started to happen again, the bolts were often loose after a single race and a simple half a turn sorted it, but eventually I started to sheer bolts again.
Next step was to upsize the bolts and this stopped the pintel issue instantly but that's about the time I saw the rivets being stretched and becoming loose.

In high winds the problem was worse, a single race would mean atleast 2 rivets being lost per rudder case, ultimately at Lake Bolac in the very strong winds we had the 3rd rivet failure which resulted in the previous pics.

time for an upgrade of this <img src="<>/smirk.gif" alt="smirk" title="smirk" height="15" width="15" />

spread the load further down the tubes and increase the distance between the rivets...

this should do it <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

installation complete <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

now I just need to go sailing to test it...... damn you WINTER <img src="<>/mad.gif" alt="mad" title="mad" height="15" width="15" />

The question now is obvious, will the stronger bottom plates give me more issues again at the pintles ? I could be chasing my tail here as each improvement seems to add problems in a related area, at worst I'll make some new pintles with a wider foot on the transom, that will probably put the issue back onto the rudder case
<img src="<>/crazy.gif" alt="crazy" title="crazy" height="15" width="15" />

Are they ally rivets if so swap them stainless, Alloy will sheer or corrode the heads off the rivets . My opinion use alloy block and shape them and weld it into the arm.

Matt

bit concerned about using stainless rivets, whilst they wont corrode or sheer off under the load they will place that load into the case arms..... that may damage the cases where the rivets are.

I did initially toy with the idea of an alloy plate or an alloy block at that point but I've sen a few damaged cases with that system and that's why I went with the stainless plate.

Hopefully the longer plate will help in spreading the load further along the case's length and if needed I can

upgrade

to the stainless rivets.

The top section will be tig-welded along the joins of the 2 outer curved parts to the centre arm..... when I get a new bottle of argon <img src="<>/blush.gif" alt="blush" title="blush" height="15" width="15" />

Whilst the cases have done well so far I think for peace of mind it will be better welded.

<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

I think Matts right about the alloy rivets, however I would go for Monel rivets. I've always used Monel, easier to work with than Stainless, in terms of, having to replace (easier to drill out)

I've had my boxes and blades since 1993, no problems with loads or the alloy block causing any damage. However, your rudder appears to be getting damaged by the stainless plate when locked down.

I'll give the Monel rivets a try ......

And I'm aware of the 'cut' in the rudders from the s/steel plate, I did originally intend to drill a 1/2inch hole and insert an alloy rod into the hole and the tap a thread in the rod .....
The idea was to then add a small bolt to set the blade against.....

I haven't got to that yet, sailing it sort of took over <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

It's a modification I'll do over the winter break, along with replacing the main decks, there's a few other changes I'm going to try as well.

<img src="<>/cool.gif" alt="cool" title="cool" height="15" width="15" />

excitement...... <img src="<>/laugh.gif" alt="laugh" title="laugh" height="15" width="15" />

the sheet-metal supplier has finally delivered my folded-up white colorbond

sailbox

All have to do now is make the ends and put it together !!!

typical that it rocks up AFTER the sailing season has finished
<img src="<>/mad.gif" alt="mad" title="mad" height="15" width="15" />

Oh well....
atleast it will be right for next year....
<img src="<>/crazy.gif" alt="crazy" title="crazy" height="15" width="15" />

The main body of the sailbox has been folded up by a plumbing supplier company ( because I can only cut & fold a max of 2440mm or 8foot in old measurements) and the box is 3100 long or ~10foot....

The ends for the box and lid are up to me and my little folder and gillo...
<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

one end fitted and the other about to be...

With the box done I took on the ends of the lid.... these were far more complicated as I wanted an overhang for some weather protection and a means of stiffening up the shallow lid somewhat.

test fitting the box & lid onto the trailer <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

4 over-centre catches will hold the lid down tight and its come up that well I'd say it would be very simple to completely seal it up with a thin weather strip
<img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

The lid can be easily removed when the boat is on the trailer either from the back or from the front.
The box size is 400mm wide, 170mm high and 3100 long, the lid is 450mm wide and has a 50mm lip that hangs down past the top of the box, the height of the lid is only 75mm and its length is 3180mm
All up cost was around the $200 mark, that includes rivets, silicone, catches etc etc ..... and an enjoyable Saturday afternoon folding up the ends and fitting it all together.

The reason I went this way over a fibreglass coffin is simple.... the

head room

between the trailer chassis and the dolphin striker is only ~200mm, there was simply no way I could squeeze in an off the shelf glass coffin in the room I had.....

The other reason for its size was also simple.....
the boom, centre-boards, rudders and cases, along with the mainsail and jib all fit easily, there's enough room left for 4 life-jackets, a couple of trap-jackets and 4 wetsuits, (obviously once all dried), so it also acts as a storage cabinet for the times the boat is not in use.
<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

yesterday was our clubs Presentations Day..... a nice relaxing day with the family and club members sharing a few drinks and stories over pizza's from a wood fired oven.

just couldn't get much better than that <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

and then it took it to a whole new level.....

now remembering I only sailed for the 2nd half of the season, and that's about ~4months worth & that includes 3 regatta's and non sailing days + the day away on car club stuff.....

So I didn't think I'd do any good as such, maybe a first or 2nd a couple of times at the best....

You could have knocked me over with a feather after the supprising little haul the old girl made.....
Four 1st's <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" /> <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" /> <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" /> <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />
Two 2nds's <img src="<>/laugh.gif" alt="laugh" title="laugh" height="15" width="15" /> <img src="<>/laugh.gif" alt="laugh" title="laugh" height="15" width="15" />
one 3rd <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

&

a 2nd in points for the post xmas series
<img src="<>/shocked.gif" alt="shocked" title="shocked" height="15" width="15" />

One 'cheap' eBay boat, one old-fart, and a few weekends and nights in the shed can do all right.... but more importantly...

having a ball throughout the entire time

she

came into my possession

worth it ?????

HELL YEAH
<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

this isn't the end......

main decks are getting ripped soon, & then we drag Karp back down
<img src="<>/cool.gif" alt="cool" title="cool" height="15" width="15" />

added some stiffeners to the sail-box lid.....

these bits are folded and have a

safety fold

on the edge so cold hands don't get cut & they wont cut into the stored gear whilst traveling, they are glued and riveted into place and are a nice solid addition.
<img src="<>/cool.gif" alt="cool" title="cool" height="15" width="15" />

there was just a bit too much flex in the lid and I was concerned it may get kinked so I added 4 pressed up colorbond bits to cope with the additional stresses the lid may come under... & with 2 young kids the likelihood that one of them will climb between the boat and box is .... well .... going to happen.
The lid will support their weight now without suffering too much
<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

the box is now fitted to the trailer and the over-centre catches are fitted up too..... works a treat. With the boat on and secured I can unclip all the catches easily and the lid easily slips out the back or front, its a tad more difficult to slip it off sideways but nothing major to do....

all the gear fits neatly inside the box.....
2 centreboards
2 rudders and cases
tiller cross-arm and tiller extension
boom with all its blocks and sheets
2 mainsails
2 jibs
and
1 spinnaker.....

ok, so one of the mains, jibs and spinnaker are from Karp but it gives you an idea of the capacity of the box even tho its only 170mm high

full <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

the simple over-centre catch...
$7 each from the local disposal store

the 25x50 tube that the catch is fixed to also doubles as a stiffener for the boxes wall, the only tricky bit was the 'hook' that I put on the lid.... I riveted them from the inside and then belted the rivets down flat so they were a flush finish inside and outside the lid, that's why the 'hook' rivets look a tad odd, the bit we normally see is on the inside of the lid
<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

EDIT:
Oh yeah ..........

AND ITS LOCKABLE
that will keep them sticky beaked ankle biters out
<img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

view from the rear..... can just see the back catches <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

and from the front....

no more gear in the car......
that means the kids can now come along

hang on....... NOoooooooooooooo !!!

<img src="<>/confused.gif" alt="confused" title="confused" height="15" width="15" />

Time to rip the main decks <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

Foams are in excellent condition although the 2 front ones have broken away from the hull sides to a certain extent, the old decks themselves came off largely in a single piece, it was only around the case slot and hatch area that they put up any sort of a fight.
The old decks are not in good nick underneath, obviously condensation has done some damage and the plys have separated slightly in a few spots..... probably explains where the water got in.

I never had a large amount of water in either hull after a day on the water, usually a 1/3rd of a coffee cup was the norm.

weight loss.....

the massive 10mm (3/8inch) deck ply.

I'm replacing this with 4mm ply

case slots are in excellent nick too and are solidly fixed to the bottom of the hull, even with the decks removed they aren't easy to move sideways.
The chopped matt extends up the case ~200mm (~8inches)

lots of this stuff......

its resin dribbles from the original deck fitting and there's mountains of it !!!
Luckily the inside of the hulls has had a coat of varnish to seal it and the resin runs are easy to knock off. I removed a good double-handful of these turd-like deposits.
the one in the pic is ~8mm in diameter and ~45mm long and its about the average in size.
<img src="<>/eek.gif" alt="eek" title="eek" height="15" width="15" />

these were disappointing, it almost looks like an after thought <img src="<>/frown.gif" alt="frown" title="frown" height="15" width="15" />

but they have worked all these years so I'll leave them as they are, a layer of mat over them tho will help.

The top hole has damaged the inwhale slightly and the stainless washer has had the vice n hammer treatment to bend it to fit in the tight corner.
With a far thinner deck I can move the plates down a good 10mm so a new set of holes will be in order anyway and I'll likely fit a doubler plate to the inside aswell..... maybe even glass it in !!

174/14952

I removed 2 of the foam's so I could gain access to those patches I did way back when.....
Idea back then was to do a proper repair when the main decks came off, well we're there now so into it !!!
<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

with foams out it was a quick and simple (although dusty) task to smooth out the repairs back to the hull line again.
Yeah probably a waste of time in the view of most but atleast I know it's back to 100% strength now that it has been done properly.

Since this photo was taken I've added a fine layer of 40gsm mat over the area, I extended it well past the damaged area just be on the safe side
<img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

The boat has never had foams around the centreboard case and the foam closest to the front beam had been cut in half, I gather this was so you had easy access to the beam bolts from the hatch hole.
The problem was there's zip in the way of deck support although with a 10mm deck it probably wasn't an issue..... but I'm fitting a 4mm deck so its going to need the extra support, the other thing is the foam that had been halved had copped a fair flogging from arms being slid past it, the top face was battered n bruised and had lost much of its structural integrity ....... not that foam has much !!
I wasn't a fan of those two ideas so I added foams to the front and rear of the case and I also made a full height foam to replace the one closest to the front beam.

The two front foams in that pic also had a different hole cut into them for a bit more

elbow room

, they now allow easy access to the beam bolts and the chain plates.
You had to have a multi-directional bendable arm to get to either prior to this mod....
pic to come on that one => damn phone was flat at the time !!

As of this post, both hulls are now up to the same stage....
New foams fitted where required
Old foams re-glued where required
Plywood stringer supports cut and glued into place
Stringers cut and ready for fitting
&
phone on the charger....
<img src="<>/blush.gif" alt="blush" title="blush" height="15" width="15" />

As promised....

the hole I cut in the foams, well its actually a hole and a half to allow me to reach the beam bolts and put the nuts onto the chain-plate bolts.
dry runs have said I should now be able to reach without having to break my arm is a dozen spots !!!

stringers all fitted up and ready for glue
<img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Port hull from behind...

Starboard hull from the front

the centre stringer between the 2 front foams has been cut to allow for the fitting of the hatch once the decks are on.