1182 ......'Twice Shy'

Question:
How on earth do you get the time to do all this? retired maybe?

Matt

I hate football.... (American football however is quite good)

cant stand singing shows.....

Fred & Ginger could dance, everyone else just prances around and calls it art-full movement....

I like to eat but cooking is the missus job so therefore I don't watch cooking shows....

Home reno shows are dangerous, they encourage absolute morons to alter their homes without proper knowledge or overseeing by experts => this in turn will in the future cost lives.... and if not then a bank full of money to make the house right to live in again !!
so I don't watch that shyte either.....

Vampire / supernatural type of shows are an insult to anyone's intelligence <img src="<>/mad.gif" alt="mad" title="mad" height="15" width="15" />

that leaves days of our lives.... thank God I'm at work when that dribble is on !!!

and motor racing, yep I love my nascar racing but the supercars bore me to tears in comparision.

So removing TV time from your life leaves lots of free hours.
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Also...
when I was racing cars I always had prep work to do before I could go racing, often that meant nights after work were spent in the shed.
Even when it gets to the toasty 6degrees we're at right now the shed isn't that bad, its also much quieter than the house where 3 of my 4 boys are tormenting their mother

retired .....
not by a long shot
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did a lot of fiddling today,

cleaned all of the excess resin from initial build and subsequent repairs over the years away,

lay a thin coat of resin over all the foams, this helps in 2 ways EG:
one-> it stops the foam degradation from salt water,
two-> it stiffens the outer 'shell' of the foam making it stronger

altered the chain-plate's internal mounts as per the pic...
laid a 120gsm mat over the ply doubler and glassed it in place then added the stainless elongated washer while the resin was still free, this will force the resin into the compressed area around the original hole where the washers used to be.
The plate is also glassed is so I don't have to fumble around when its time to re-install the chain-plates.

I also added a strip of mat across the ply stringer supports, I believe this will do a couple of things.....

one-> substantially increase the loading strength of the plate and give a larger area of 'grip' between the ply and foam.

two-> because I've also turned the end of the tape onto the hull by ~50mm this should tie the 2 sides of the hull together and again spreads the load on the stringer support plates out into the actual hulls thus taking some of the load away from the foams.
In hind sight I think maybe the tape could have been better placed if it had of been sandwiched between the plate and the foam..... just thinking out-loud there...
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next job....
glue in the stringers
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The resin I'm using is a slow set resin, the skin gels in around 3 hours, it takes 4~5 days to fully cure.... so the stringers need to go in by Tuesday night if I'm to fit the new decks on the coming weekend
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Love your work Kingy! Keep it coming.
Why didn't you just glass/glue the chain plates in?

We are going to have mosquito projects coming out our ears kingy!
Hooley dooley <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" /> all worth it tho, love sailing these beauty's.
Even if mine has a platform weight of around 1000kg haha
Al

<img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Have every intention of keeping it comming<img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

&

I did Karps chain plate that way and it was lots of stuffing around, the plate on Shy is old school so the 'ring' at the top was going to leave a big gap in the deck to have to fill later.

so the choice was straight forward really and largely based on time and available bits on hand.

the scary thing...... I've been offered another one, for now I'll let it sit <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

With Matts purchase that should make 5~6 mozzies at the club <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

and your little fatty is about to get put on a diet
I have all the gear here now for yours, new supply of resin arrived last week, ply for the fore & rear decks is here, ply for the mains is here.... even the cloth from the states arrived far sooner than I expected.

Has Phill started on it yet ??

&

do you want a thread on it like this one ???

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Haha you're the wizz with this stuff!
Don't see why we couldn't do the same thing.
Interested to see how much weight actually comes off it.
And negative on making a start haha. But hey. Season starts in 4 ish months. <img src="<>/laugh.gif" alt="laugh" title="laugh" height="15" width="15" />
Al

The plan is to rip all your decks off and replace them the same as I've done to Shy's.
The mains will be last to be done because we have a nasty gash to attend to before they can be put back on.

If the weight is anything like Shy's massive decks then I'd expect that the new decks will be less than half the weight of the originals but have the same strength.

So far with Shy ....
the rears I fitted came out at same weight as the originals but their now much stronger, I could almost stand on the rears now but you couldn't lean on them beforehand
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the fore decks came out 1/4 lighter than original and probably twice as strong, remember I had to replace them before the Easter regatta after a wayward elbow ripped it open, now I'd be happy to stand on them !!

The mains......
If I've weighed it all correctly then its so close to exactly HALF the weight of the originals it isn't funny.
Karp's mains are the same as I'm doing to Shy's and although I did have a minimal weight improvement with Karp it was minor because she already had the thin deck material, it was all the underneath stuff that had failed and caused the mains to go soft.

This was solely due to the stringers being set directly into the foam and the foam NOT having a layer of resin over it, the salt water broke-down the foam and ultimately once the foam failed the stringers had no support at all..... hence the plywood plates I glue to the tops of the foams.

I looked very seriously at 'I' beams and strength wise they are superior, BUT they are extreamly time consuming to make let alone fit, that's why I came up with the ply plate to foam solution, its quick, simple, easy to make and fit and uses the foam as support as much as it supports the foam.

win win ....... & win situation as far as I'm concerned.

The weight of the plates and stringers and thin deck ply is unbelievably light compared to the original stuff

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Ah the smell of curing resin..... <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

all the under-deck work is done, as soon as the resin cures fully I'll give it a light sand and check the curve is all good... A quick check of the curve say's we're spot on but I' wont be happy until I've run a sanding block over it. The sanding will also cut the resin that's managed to find its way on top of the stringers, I need clean timber or

roughed-up

resin so the resin that's applied to the underside of the deck will stick.
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with the resin just about set I decided to attack the ply board and cut the strips down that I'll be using for the decks....

reasonably happy with the grain in the timber and the way it sits, the peak of the visible 'tree-rings' is right at the back of the case slots, it then seems to be a more walnut grain from there through to the front beam, this then ties in nicely with the front decks grain
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Port hull

Starboard hull

Saturday looks like gluing day

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opps.........

forgot to add one tiny little insignificant detail.....

I've changed 'brands' of my resin, the supply had been great but the price fluctuations were just plumb crazy
<img src="<>/crazy.gif" alt="crazy" title="crazy" height="15" width="15" />

So I've made the switch to Trojan resins from WEST systems... have to admit I was a little hesitant at first having to go from a 5:1 mix to a 3:1 ratio mix, but I have to admit I'm actually happier with the Trojan product, so far its certainly far more consistent in its gell & cure times.....
So much so I would be confident enough to say I can almost set my watch by it

Its now at the stage I'm using less product as I'm able to calculate the amount I need versus the time I actually have to layup, the WEST systems always gelled up to early or didn't go off when expected, I actually had a worrying time with some of the work I did on Karp, the resin was still a soft gel after 3 days, it did eventually set but it was the slowest mix ever to cure and it wasn't the mix's fault either..... I mixed up 3 pots for the task at hand and none of wanted to cure at all, as to why I'll never know.

I'll also be using a different cloth aswell on the weekend, so this could all be very interesting

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I use international exoxy resign with international light weigh filler and glue powder,or international exoxy glue (strong stuff)

Right.... lets get into it !

Someone sent me a PM asking for a few more details on the process.... I hope this helps <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

I usually do a good test fit prior to fitting the ply, once this is done I then work on the under side of the deck and this will be all I see for the next 15mins or so. Writing the end that the ply goes to will save an embarrassing back-to-front fit, so always make the note as to which way it goes.
A light sand with some ~180grit paper will cut away any strands of timber on the ply, it also 'roughs-up' the surface.... I've also sanded the stringers / case slots / and anywhere else the new deck will contact

resin mixed, cloth cut to size.... ready to go !!

I then pour a little resin from the pot directly onto the ply an

screed

it out as I go..... this (although shakey photo) is my squeegee, its been cut from the side of an old wheelie bin, the hand plane makes a nice crisp edge and its an easy tool to make an use.

the entire board coated in a thin layer of resin... this takes around ~5mins to do, the resin is 'worked' into the ply as I go.

Lay the cloth onto the resin loosely....

out with my squeegee again the work the cloth into the resin

done <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />
this is the slow fiddley bit, its very easy to wrinkle the cloth or have it drifting off the board or even worse lather the cloth.
slow and steady is the key here <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

the cloth I'm using here is 40gsm cloth
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So you saw a little bit of resin left in the pot, this gest syringed directly onto the stringers in a small bead, a sort of caulking-gun in miniature if you like.....
sorry for the shakey pic I had to keep moving aswell as snap the pic with the wrong hand...

now the tricky bit......

lay the board down on the boat but only allow one end to contact the boat, as soon as you have it centralised the staple-gun and a cord is placed in the middle and a staple is fired into the deck.... then lay the other end down and again cord and staple it once its central.

next step is to 'tie' the board down, I start in the middle of the deck and work my out

Once its tied down I then start the stapling, the cord as I've shown in the past is to rip the staples out when the resin cures.
In this pic I'm half way through the stapling.

Once both sides are stapled down, add a little bit of thin ply under the tie-down boards if they are loose....

I added a few down the side of the boat to increase the pressure aswell

So that was the starboard deck......

and here's the port deck I prepared earlier <img src="<>/laugh.gif" alt="laugh" title="laugh" height="15" width="15" />

The process today took just under 6hours and after the cleanup of the shed the resin had already started to gel nicely.....
now we wait for a couple of days while it fully cures
<img src="<>/smirk.gif" alt="smirk" title="smirk" height="15" width="15" />

the old 10mm deck against an offcut of the new 4mm deck material.

As you can clearly see the 2 added foams, the ply plates I glued to the foams, the 3 runs of stringers I added and the new ply deck .... weighs far less than that lump of 10mm ply that was there !

be interesting to get her back on the scales once this is finished
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200/16196

It will be a couple of days before I even look at her again, the resin is a slow cure resin and the weather here is pharkencold to say the least so it will probably be a bit longer to fully cure even tho the heaters are on.
Once its cured fully we have the wonderfull job of ripping the staples out ..... mutter mutter mutter ... and then we can cut the hatch hole and the case slot.
I took exact measurements for the case slot and the centre of the hatch so it in theory be fairly simple to make the holes in the right spots...... yeah !!! <img src="<>/blush.gif" alt="blush" title="blush" height="15" width="15" />

Resin has cured fully <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

staples are ripped and then pulled out <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

edges are cut off and then planed back <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

sanding block finishes off the edges <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

hatch hole and case slots cut and sanded into shape

not bad for a Saturday arvo job

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in the next few shots you can see the old deck line on the beams against the new fitted deck.....

yup, we have thinned down the old girl <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />
the scales are coming out soon
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work sucks some times.....
especially when it cuts into my time in the shed or being away
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but..... back into it ASAP <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

The mains have had all the staple holes filled, sanded back all the 'putty' and the actual decks too and now they are ready for primer
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the new main decks , like the way it lines up <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

masking done, and primer on <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

the mains will have the green border like the rear and fore decks have and the centre will be varnished.
should look neat and tidy when its finished.

NB:
see the sanding block on the fore deck ......
After the rush job to replace the fore-decks and have her ready for the Easter Regatta at Lake Bolac, I never did a great job on the varnishing, it was just enough to seal it up and I knew I had to

fix

it later....
now is as good a time as any <img src="<>/crazy.gif" alt="crazy" title="crazy" height="15" width="15" />

I'm cutting it down with 180grit paper until I get it reasonable, then I'll drop down to 320grit paper, at this stage I wont have to re-do the green border but more than likely I'll get a rub through so its one the cards to get a new green border while I'm doing the mains....

off to the shed.... SFA on the idiot box yet again.....
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crew snapped a pic as I was laying down the green....

Green all done <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />

Masking tape and paper removed from the decks <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />
the paper and tape stays on the hull sides untill the clear is applied, then we are done

nice clean edge, sadly the fore-decks as clean an edge but they wont take long to get right.....
clear coat in a couple of days when the green settles enough to give it a lite sand...

clear on <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

the mains are a strange color in comparision to the front and rear decks, yet as you move around the boat the light has an amazing effect on the finish, it jumps from a dark brown to a very lite-honey color and then back dark again as you pass by...

in this photo you can see just how dark the timber appears compared to the other decks