Front Beam prebend
I'm sure I read about pre loading the front beam,on a Nacra 5.7, by adjusting the DS bottom nut.
I know how to do it, by stretching a masons line along the bottom of the beam & measuring displacement at the DT, but how much do you bend it?
I can't find the photo, or am I hallucinating?
Note to everyone, don't try to tighten more than that!! I wasn't thinking and did that over the weekend, managed to strip the dolphin striker and the bolt. Then tried to undo it and really made a mess (should have left it where it was). Hey EC you happen to have another one of those kicking around... 🙂
A load from the beam didn't cause the DS rod to strip. More likely the compression tube was corroded to the rod. If your boat has the original alum V bar, you might want to look carefully where the attachment bolts it to the beam for galvanic corrosion. Failure can happen here due to age and the results are catastrophic.
Nope, I stripped it by trying to put too much load on... it was a new rod that I was putting on. 🙂 I had just finished cutting the old rod off (that I bent last year) and was putting the new rod on when I screwed it up. Wish I could claim your reason, but I can't darn it all. $68 plus shipping mistake (yep, I'm a moron).
Now I have one on order from Murray's, hopefully it will get here before next weekend.
Now here's a stupid question, I jarred the compression sleeve loose so it's isn't lined up with the holes. Is there an easy way to realign it?
D.
Sorry Dave, I only made one of 'em. When I chnaged mine, I realized it would be way easier to push a stick through the tube, as I withdrew the rod, in order to prevent dropping it in the beam. I think it would be pretty easy to tape it to a stick, but you would need two people. Your arms are not long enough to manipulate the stick, & look to see if it is lined up.
I don't buy needing lube on the threads. We used a lot of SS bolts/fitting in a mill I worked at many years ago.(West Coast Vancouver Island salt environment)The mill wrights never used anything on them.
I was concerned the threads of one nut might have been compromised, so I replaced them when I changed my rod. As an experiment we double nutted the cut piece of rod, put it in a large vice, then tried to twist the old nut past some bent threads. Using a 5/8 box end wrench, almost 18" long, it took all the torque I could apply before the nut/rod stripped. The nut was actually hot from the friction. I think there was a bad thread on the rod, or some filings got caught in there, or the rod was not straight. Check for trueness by rolling the rod on a glass table top, it will "click" if it isn't true. You shouldn't be able to strip it without applying a good deal of force, that is a pretty heavy duty rod.
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