The traveler line passes through a metal loop/shackle on the traveler car on a Prindle. It seems there should be a block installed on the traveler car for this line to reduce friction, loads and chafing. Is there a reason this high friction approach has been adopted? Am I missing something?
You can see what I mean in this photo from the owner's manual: 
Kenny
If you look at the Murray's catalog you will find a Prindle traveler that has a steel roller on each leg of the shackle to facilitate easier passage of the traveler line. I haven't purchased one of these yet but was planning on either doing that or adding a new traveler track and going with a harken traveler car with rollers built in. Even with the main sheet eased I have had drop the tiller and use both hands to get the traveler to budge and I am a pretty big guy.
Please let me know if you find a good solution to this problem. Unfortunately I have been forced out of the water for the rest of the year and won't be able to experiment myself. 🙁
I am thinking of getting a used 2" ratchet block with a swivel for the task. I only see this part on murray's
While the new part has a smoother casting than my olden model, this has the same problem, the line passes through the shackle with not much to reduce friction.
edited by: kgatesman, Jul 06, 2009 - 01:10 PM
That is the part I was thinking of. I believe the larger diameter cylinders on the lower portions of the legs are rollers which should help the operation. I think the description of the item made mention of this but do not recall offhand.
i really doubt the friction on the traveler line is a problem. there is not that much friction/tension on that u shaped part of the traveler. if the line is to big..use a thiner line. you can have (and most do) different size line for the traveler/main.
I am CERTAIN that it has more to do with:
a. a worn track
b. worn car
c. shot bearings in the car*** usually its this one.
there is a new lube called McLube onedrop made for bearings. it worked well on my car bearings (even though they are steel and its made for delron bearings).
Also note, on some cats you MUST release main sheet tension to move the traveler (my H18 was like that).
Shoot, on my P18 my car's hoop is twisted like it was hit with a hammer. I can not pull that car in while it is under load. I only make "to center" adjustments after I have eased out the main sheet. I guess a new car cost around $100 and can be a pain to install.....
I gotta agree with Andrew with everything except his weighting system. I've never seen any real friction in the becket of the car either w/ a continuous sheet or a traveler sheet tied to the main. The issue is most likely the track itself IMO. I sanded and wetsanded mine for quite a while, mainly so I wouldn't knick up my feet too much, but it made a huge difference (along with lube) with how well the car moved. You certainly could have dinged up sheaves in the car as well, but IIRC there aren't bearings to worry about - just sheaves riveted in.
andrewscott wrote: i really doubt the friction on the traveler line is a problem. there is not that much friction/tension on that u shaped part of the traveler. if the line is to big..use a thiner line. you can have (and most do) different size line for the traveler/main.
I am CERTAIN that it has more to do with:
a. a worn track
b. worn car
c. shot bearings in the car*** usually its this one.there is a new lube called McLube onedrop made for bearings. it worked well on my car bearings (even though they are steel and its made for delron bearings).
Also note, on some cats you MUST release main sheet tension to move the traveler (my H18 was like that).
You can also head up a few degrees, taking some pressure off the main. I use this approach when I want to sheet in the main or jib as well as the traveler especially if the wind is really blowing.
I seem to have the same problem. the on the top of my traveler on my P18 is twisted as well but it looks like it is supposed to be. I just replaced my main line and in the heaviest wind I've really sailed in I had a hard time getting the traveler to move in with the line just passing through the car. I had someone on the boat with me who is an old pro but was surprised there was not some sort of block attached to the traveler to make this easier. He says it shouldn't be that hard. Currently my main an traveler line are the same line with knot to keep the traveler from hitting the end of the track. I may have to look at a smaller line for the traveler to see if it will help but I have also had my eye on that new prindle traveler for a bit as well.
A new traleler is not hard to install. Drill out the rivets holding the end cap and remove the end cap. Next remove only the outer bolt holding the rear crossbar. Slide off the old car, slide on the new car, replace the bolt then the end cap rerivet and you are done. Should be a 30-45 minute job.
It is much harder than that to install. You will need to remove the inner beam bolts (usually corroded ) and countersink the bolt heads further into the track as the clearances are different between the cars. But new car is MUCH better. Pete
Pete are there recommended replacement bolts if they are corroded. or tips for removing the corroded ones. I mean if I'm gonna do it might as well do as much as possible.
Don't need replacement bolts. Just spin off corrosion on wire brush side of your garage grinder--takes 10 seconds, and then the nuts go back on easily. Pete
Crap now I have to get a garage with a grinder. 😉
your Kidding the Word C.R.A.P is CENSORED out.
edited by: Quarath, Sep 09, 2009 - 10:20 AM
Wait a minute, anyone that has the time to do a flemish coil on a cat has way too much time on his/her hands to worry about the little more time that a shinny metal post will cause to slow down their sailing... 😀 👿
I thought that was kind of funny too, the pic was lifted from the original owner's manual. Photographer's asthetic is greater than sailor's practicality.