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So if I'm making trapeze lines from Amsteel...

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(@klozhald)
Posts: 1461
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Topic starter
 
[#4067]

I'm considering making trapeze lines from one of the newer synthetic lines.
Which type of line has worked well for anyone?
What type of thimbles did you use aloft at the masthound?
Did you bother with thimbles at the user end or just splice a loop for a mini-block?
What handles worked for you?
All suggestions / thoughts appreciated.

Edited by klozhald on Aug 28, 2013 - 03:30 PM.


 
Posted : August 28, 2013 9:30 am
(@rehmbo)
Posts: 541
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I inherited a setup with spliced loops reinforced with a cover up top and small (3/8" ID) thimbles spliced in at the bottom. T-handle load is taken up by the lower thimble.

Sailed with the setup for 5 regattas this year with no observable wear. So far I really like them.

Line is some flavor of 3/16" dyneema - I'm guessing the Yale Ultrex 12 based on color and feel.


 
Posted : August 28, 2013 10:32 am
David Bonin
(@wolfman)
Posts: 1555
Member
 

Amsteel would work great, we use it tie safety booms to anchors in front of hydropower plants. Definitely use thimbles and a brummel splice. Also consider getting the top couple of feet where it will be rubbing against the other rigging coated or covered. Seeing wear at the bottom is easy.


 
Posted : August 28, 2013 11:38 am
(@davefarmer)
Posts: 1104
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Yeah, wear at the top is the issue. Also consider using sailmaker's thimbles, no sharp edges.


 
Posted : August 28, 2013 3:20 pm
Edward Hilliard
(@edchris177)
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Do some searches here. There was a thread about a year ago. IIRC the consensus was that they chafe pretty badly at the top.


 
Posted : August 28, 2013 3:48 pm
(@samc99us)
Posts: 577
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Then put a cover on them at the top! That is what I am doing, using 7/64" amsteel. I used regular thimbles at the top, the sail makers are much more expensive and I didn't notice better chafe protection with the sail makers thimbles. On the bottom make sure you use a cover when you loop the amsteel through your roller cleat, otherwise it will chafe.

Nearly everyone is using these on the F18 these days. They are stronger, lighter and cheaper than stainless wires.

-Sam


 
Posted : August 29, 2013 12:58 am
Edward Hilliard
(@edchris177)
Posts: 2532
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What life are you getting Sam?
I was going to go this route, but shied away due the threads a while ago regarding chafe near the top. Plus I had a roll of wire sitting in the parts bin, so I remade them with wire, & added a 3:1 height adjuster that came off the wrecked 5.2.


 
Posted : August 29, 2013 3:35 am
(@klozhald)
Posts: 1461
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Topic starter
 

samc99us wrote: On the bottom make sure you use a cover when you loop the amsteel through your roller cleat, otherwise it will chafe.

So instead of terminating the trap wire into a thimble, you are integrating it into a roller cleat, like a clam cleat? What handle did you use above the cleat?

Edited by klozhald on Aug 29, 2013 - 03:46 PM.


 
Posted : August 29, 2013 5:51 am
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