Splicing question

can't argue with the manufacturer until you thoroughly test

I splice single braid only so i can't advise but please test thoroughly and report

ps perhaps look at how Brian Toss does it, his tools do it in reverse so there may be some insight from that perspective?

Edited by MN3 on Mar 06, 2017 - 07:59 PM.

I enjoy splicing double braid but it's quite challenging. Your video is one I've studied.
I found it great for explaining the finishing process. In other words how using a winch, etc
allows for the final formation and appearance factor of the splice.
This video on the other hand,

allowed me a point by point inspection of the preliminary processes, ie loop formation etc.. And yes, a couple of my first attempts yielded
less than expected loops size. Also, I found that any cordage below 5/16ths" without highly specialized
additional tools is nearly impossible. That said, I do have an excellent group of SS fids.
LOL, try doing all this while all the while working the splice around the becket of your main sheet block;
that's my my two cents. Ray

I use the Brion Toss method, the main difference is no fid lengths and his wand.
Here's his web site http://www.briontoss.com/catalog/splicinggear.html

Here's the guy at sailrite recreating the Brion Toss Eye splice video

I don't know about the eye being too small by not normalizing the core, but if you don't do it then your measurements on the core will all be off and your core and cover lengths will be off so the cover or the core may be loose. Thus reducing the strength of the line.

I've stopped doing eye splices with double braids. I just don't really see the need, there are a few spots here and there but really not needed. For continous systems, what I've switched to do is splicing the cover into the core and then doing a core to core splice. This is smaller than having two eye splices tied together, cleaner and far far far simpler to do the actual splicing on!

For most of the control lines where I'm using FSE robline dinghy control, doing cover to cover eye splices with the 3 and 4mm stuff is very very tough, no doubt the Brion Toss method makes life easier but IMO its again, not worth the time unless you are holding a block or wear producing component directly with that eye. Generally I just do a core to core eye splice then whip the cover shut at the eye. If you go up to 5 or 6mm line that is a different story but often that is too large a control line on our boats for anything other than the mainsheet (7-8mm), spinnaker halyard (6mm), jib sheet (5-6mm), and spin sheet (7-8mm).

For most of the control lines where I'm using FSE robline dinghy control, doing cover to cover eye splices with the 3 and 4mm stuff is very very tough, no doubt the Brion Toss method makes life easier but IMO its again, not worth the time unless you are holding a block or wear producing component directly with that eye

i really don't have the need nor desire to learn/do jacketed line.

If i'm splicing something that will abrade it, i just toss a thimble in there and splice my HM line around it

i just toss a thimble in there and splice my HM line around it

Do you have pictures of that?

My purpose is for holding a shackle on a (monohull) halyard. I am studying the Toss splice videos and trying to match them up with the one I posted. They seem to include additional measurements missing in others - maybe that points to better quality (stronger) result. But how much stronger does it need to be. Splices are pretty strong compared to a knot.

yelkenli1 wrote:

i just toss a thimble in there and splice my HM line around it

Do you have pictures of that?

Here's a vid of a guy replacing a thimble on an amsteel eye splice. He takes the splice apart and puts it back together. Single braids are much easier to work with.