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How to rig the Infusion jib downhaul

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Gabe Silverman
(@uogecko)
Posts: 77
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Topic starter
 
[#26799]

Can someone explain how the stock Infusion jib downhaul system is supposed to work? It looks like when the jib is up the tack is too far from the chainplate tang to shackle. I've got the mast raked to the upper rudder spring screw (rudders were down).

I'm unclear how the whole thing is supposed to work.

Thanks!


 
Posted : May 12, 2010 12:11 pm
(@david.ingram)
Posts: 3879
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I put a small piece of line at the top of the jib so the clue is a bit lower. Then I rig it as described in the manual.

http://www.katamaranspecialisten.se/manuals/man_nacracra_f18.pdf


 
Posted : May 12, 2010 12:22 pm
Gabe Silverman
(@uogecko)
Posts: 77
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Topic starter
 

So with that extra piece of line you're able to shackle the clue to the chainplate tang?


 
Posted : May 12, 2010 12:28 pm
(@david.ingram)
Posts: 3879
Captain Registered
 

I don't shackle the jib to the chainplate anymore. I rig the jib so clue is well below that point and I turn the chainplate around so the tab does not interfere with the jib. I've seen some folks put a large shackle on the clue and around the chainplate. This works well if you've rigged a system to adjust the jib luff tension. I'm a set it and forget it kind if guy, yeah I know, the top guns do it but I'm pretty sure an adjustable jib luff isn't what's keeping me from the top.


 
Posted : May 12, 2010 12:39 pm
(@Anonymous 11730)
Posts: 280
 

Assuming it is stock and not roller furler. If stock, hook the jib at the head, tie the jib from the grommet at the clew with 5mm dyneema or tech line, make a few loops from the chainplate shackle to make like 6:1 purchase, and honk it down and use the cleat on the jib. As mentioned previously, if it is too high up on the forestay, add a loop of rope at the head to make it the correct length. It is a primitive but functional set-up.


 
Posted : May 17, 2010 11:20 am
Gabe Silverman
(@uogecko)
Posts: 77
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Topic starter
 

How tight is your downhaul? My jib is brand new and I'm putting a modest amount of downhaul tension on it but I'm still finding that the sail shape in the middle of the bottom third of the sail isn't looking too good.


 
Posted : August 12, 2010 5:31 pm
(@dubbletrap)
Posts: 13
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Hi uogeck,

If you have a std performance jib with the cleat, you will have the clew of the jib aprox 100mm above the spinn pole.

what we do is add a 20 mm block the chain plate to where you would usual shackel a typical jib, the use approx 3ft of 5mm dynema or similar to tighten the jib,tye one end on the chain plate through the eye of the jib clew throught the block and throught the cleat on the jib.

you do not need to have the jib to tight, if you tighten it you will spoil the shape, only honk on the jib in 20-25 knots of wind, be gentle with her.

I have charted infussions and some of the guys add a lenght to lower the jib closer to the spin pole.

The top teams and a length to the top of the jib, tie the clew to the bar below the chain plate and above the spin pole and have and adjustable system.

this lowers the sail force and makes for a better sheeting angle.

this boat works on the diamonds you need to adjust them to get all the performance out of her.

good luck!


 
Posted : August 18, 2010 12:19 pm
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