F85SR Concept Boat

Sourcing the Lay Flat Tubing can be problematic because it usually comes in 800 meters rolls. I just got lucky as they found a roll with only 200 meters on it for me. Quite a bit more than I need so I can send you some if the size suits. The stuff I got gives a 360mm circumference which is Ok for the 90mm tubes I need to make. It comes in all sizes and thicknesses and this has got me thinking again- (this is not necessarily a good thing). The chap I dealt with said he would try to help out if I needed any other sizes in small quantities but I have to drive 85km to pick it up. He wouldn't ship it.
Still making the spinnaker pole and carbon boom this way will be fun projects.

I'll pass on it for now and rather see what I can find here on the other side of the planet when the time comes. Thanks for the offer Phill!

I have been busy the last month restoring a timber winch. Lots of rust and stuff. Your project looks much cleaner than my current workshop <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />

Oh gelcoat masters, is this anything to be concerned about? Noticed it on my F24. Only on one side. Interesting zig-zag pattern

<img src="http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k245/jronline13/RudderCloseup_zps61dbe59b.jpg?t=1400866545" alt="" />

Here's a close up (don't know why it won't show up here)

Jay,
The question may be better put to the f-boat egroup where you may find some F24 guys who have experienced the same problem.

Agreed, although I have a much tougher time navigating that site (and don't know all the street cred of the posters) <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Love the progress you're making on yours!

Jay,
All I can tell you is that my rudder is designed with two layers of double bias carbon wrapped around it over the leading edge with an extra one on the head. But this is a daggerboard rudders and doesn't have the cut out your swing rudder has.
If your rudder is built along the same lines where the core is cut out of the leading edge in the head (to make sure it kicks forward enough when down) they would most likely have to cut the Double Bias carbon and wrap each end of the cut fabric over itself.

The stress fractures that you see in the gelcoat are the same pattern as the DB carbon and may indicate the core is trying to shear. However if built the same as mine there are measures taken in the design in the high load areas to prevent this and the cracking may only be superficial.
I have my own view on which one but it's a guess.
An F24 owner that has experienced the same problem should know and therefore be more helpful.
If you are being led astray on the f-boat egroup it is likely that Ian will chime in and set it straight.

Thank you for your insight, Phill. I also emailed my local Corsair dealer for thoughts.

I'll poke around to see if this is something to worry about, as well as potential fixes if it ends up being an issue.

Perhaps buy a spare to keep on the boat (mostly daysailing in light conditions these days) in case something happens.

Phil, Wow! I can't believe I didn't know this thread existed. What a find! Thanks for the updates - enjoying reading through your progress!

I saw some questions about vacuum pump setups. I have a decent resource for plans at http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/welcome.htm

I built a vacuum pump system that has every bell and whistle you could ever imagine. I've pieced it together with spare parts and items bought from ebay - it's controlled by an Allen-Bradley PLC, has a ambient pressure chamber (so the pump doesn't startup with a vacuum on it's inlet), adjustable pressure switch that controls the cycling of the pump, small reservoir (PVC tubes), and a vacuum regulator so I can dial in exactly how much vacuum I'm after. I've also incorporated four spdt switches that trigger inputs on the PLC so I can set a crude timer in binary logic. 0001 is one hour, 0010 is two hours, 0011 is three hours, etc. Those will start an onboard timer that, once expired, will not cycle the pump anymore....like I said, overkill.

Vacuum pump controller (no, it&#x27;s not a bomb) by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr

yeah, try telling that to Homeland Security...

Jake,
Thanks for the compliment.
It's a pity that Rick has taken down the photo album for catsailor because most of my earlier progress posts
presented pics that I had stored in the photo album.
Now the posts talk about photos that you can't see.

I still have the pics and in fact a quick check on the pics that I've taken shows around 2,000 photos of the work stored on my laptop.

It has been very useful. I work out a technique of doing something and sometime later want to replicate it,
I just find the relevant photos and it all comes back.

As far as vacuum pumps you have a pretty cool setup. It never occurred to me to put a timer on my setup.
I guess I'm not that bright as it would have saved me getting up in the early hours of the morning to turn it off
quite a few times.
All my really big vacuuming jobs are now done but I think I'll still get the timer setup for the many small ones
left to do.
I currently have the forward berth under vacuum. After that goes in I'll get back to making my carbon spinnaker pole and boom.

I have a number of different projects on the go right now but with the fwd berth finally coming to a close I'll post a couple pics.

The first pic is taken down through the fwd hatch showing the molding that i put in place to form the glass flanges to sit the berth on.
Ian has a much simpler way outlined in the plans but I didn't think I could get the results that I wanted that way.

The second pic shows the glass flange with the form work removed and the hull under the berth all painted.

The third pic shows the berth all glued in.
With such a large area beneath the berth I want to make max use of it to store bulky lightweight items and so I put in two access hatches
to make sure that I could easily get to everything in storage. Along with a third round one fwd of the watertight bulkhead under.

I'm currently working at fitting the CMMs (Central Mounting Modules).
Its hard to bring one self to cut big holes in a hull that I've put so much work into but it has to be done.
The CMMS are what the folding mechanism bolts too and the beam fold down onto. So they are quite an important part of the boat.

In order to get the fwd CMM level I made up two simple timber frames and used threaded rod so I could make fine adjustments
to the heights of each of the 4 corners.
Prior to this I set the boat up level. The gunwales were made level with water levels and once the boat was level at the gunwale a plumb bob confirmed the bow was perfectly aligned vertically and when the plumb bob was set from the cabin centreline it went do to the keel C/L. I was pretty happy about this as it indicates the boat couldn't have much twist.

The following pics show some of the setup.

Once I had the fwd CMM held in place with bog I removed my timber frame and cut it down so I could use it to level the Aft CMM.
I put straight edges though the hull and used a tape to set the spacing. Then I braced the position of the Aft CMM by clamping a length of alloy box section two the two CMMs.
A friend brought around his engineers level to check my work leveling the beam pads. This level is extremely sensitive and it worked out my greatest error was only 0.35mm.
This was basically 3 thicknesses of peel ply under one end to make it perfectly level on the worst beam landing. I was very surprised it worked out so well.
A few more pics below.

Phill,

do you know if this level of accuracy is the norm with homebuilders of Farrier designs?

Rolf,
I don't know what others do.
It may depend on how much they enjoy building.
I enjoy what I'm doing and look at each task as a challenge to do the best I can.

Hi Phil.
just joined this forum. I'm the guy who bought Glynn's F85SR in Subic Bay and shipped her to Vancouver Island where we are now sailing her and making her our own. Lots of changes. We have re-named her

Mail Order Bride

. Having built my previous ultra light F 9AR Redshift I can appreciate what you are accomplishing with your build. Looks like you are doing a great job. Will be happy to share our experiences with the boat as we make changes and get to know her.
Wayne

Wayne,
Congrats on the new boat.
It would be great to hear about Mail Order Bride along with any changes.

I haven't touched the boat in over 2 months . I've been busy making etching presses.
Just converting 100 yr old dissused washing mangles.
Given the time it takes it's a lot like boat building in as much as it is a labour of love.
Anyway now 4 more artists will have the opportunity to explore the many varied and creative
facets of the art of printmaking. Before my wife getting hooked on it I had no idea of how
involved and creative this art can be.
Hopefully by the end of next week I'll have made some more progress on the boat.

Hi Phill,

do you happen to have som

before

pictures of the mangles?

I notice some new looking brackets and bearings, but it would be fun to see your starting point.

I bet there are four happy artists now..

Rolf,
I forgot to take before pics. There is around 64 hours work in each one.
I hope to get back to the boat now.

I'm finally back working on the F85.
After some laminating I managed to cut out the centre of the forward

Central Mounting Module

today.
At last I can work in the front section of the main hull without climbing in through the forward hatch.

Cutting out the centre of the CMM just leads to more work in that area. But I don't have to climb in the fwd hatch anymore to do it now. The pics will tell the story.

It turns out the section I cut out of the CMM was big enough to make the cover panels.

Still more work in this area.
Formwork is required to build a glass flange.

The Glass flange is created so Uni can be laminated over it.

In this case I used Uni Carbon over the flange.
This pretty much concludes work in this area for a while.
I have made 4 little cubbie holes, two either side. So with a crew of 4 each person has a place for valuables while sailing
or other items like a torch that one may want to keep at hand while cruising with my better half.

I'm currently working on the outside of the main hull.
Starting at the bow I installed the carbon socket for the spinnaker pole and fore stay.

Main the anchor well hatch rim and glassed it to the top of the deck with some 400gm B/D.

Then I did the fairing needed for the the fwd hatch.

The glass tube to take the forward net has been glued and glassed to the foredeck. I have cut a slot thru the hull under the tube for the fwd 200mm. This allowed me to take 2 layers of 400gm glass over the top of the deck around the tube and to the under side of the deck. Now any load will be transferred to the deck and not trying to delaminate the hull. The slot was filled and glassed over on the inside of the anchor well and then also covered in 2 layers of glass as the tube was glass over it's full length. I have designed a fitting that will insert in the glass tube to take the dyneema line the fwd net will be laced to hence the need to strengthen the end section of the tube.

I have made up a fairing for the fwd flat edge of the fwd cmm.
This will be faired into the hull further when the mainhull is faired for painting later.

I had some laminating to do between the rear beam mount (CMM) and the * floor.
Normally this is probably just done by kneeling down in the *.
A few days earlier I came off my bike again.
At least I didn't break my collar bone this time, but with cracked ribs and no skin on both my knees kneeling
to do it this way would be an adventure in pain that I could do without.
The boat was winched onto its side enabling me to do the work sitting on a chair next to it.

I had some laminating to do around the main beam bulkhead on the underside of the cabin roof.
Mark came around to help roll the hull over for this. One person winding a winch out and one winding a winch in and hey presto its done.
I supported the hull with a couple of out of date gas bottles under the main beam pads and a plank and ladders at the rear.
Then I could just roll under on an office chair and do the work while seated through the forward hatch. Very easy and comfortable.
I think I'll do this when it comes to painting the underside of the cabin roof too.
Here are some pics of the setup.

It has been around 6 weeks since my last update.

In the interim I have managed to get a few things done.

I've made the carbon beam for the traveler.
I've installed it just behind the CMM.

Quite a bit of thought went into its positioning as a part of how the carbon mast and boom are going to work.
I finally decided against roller furling. (BTW:-I hope to take delivery of the carbon mast in a couple of weeks.)

I had already purchased the traveler when a local chandlery was going bust.
The only problem being I couldn't source M6 bolts long enough to attach it to the carbon beam.
Instead I bought the longest M6 countersunk bolts that I could source and some M10 hex head bolts.
I put the M10 in the lathe , cut the treads off and bored a hole right through them and tapped an
M6 thread. I get around 20mm of thread engagement which is more than enough.

I've made the seat side panels and like the carbon traveller beam and most other things all under a vacuum.

I kept the cut outs in the side panels and made doors. I was quite surprised at how heavy
the stainless hinges are for 6 doors. I think I'll replace the stainless hinges for white plastic ones that I have
managed to source locally. If I decide I don't like the doors I will just take them off.

I have installed the port seat side panels and was taping in the stbd side earlier today.

I looked at sourcing the watertight hatches required to house the emergency gear, EPIRB flares etc but
couldn't source the ones I wanted in the size I wanted so I made my own.
Here is a pic of the hatch to be accessed from inside the ****.

Below is the hatch that would be accessed from the nets if the boat has flipped.

Once the seals have been installed they will both be perfectly flush so I'll paint the cylinder the

T

handle is in red for contrast so it can be easily found.

Over the next couple of days I hope to flip the main hull upside down and elevate it with the winch system
sufficiently that I can either sit or stand beneath and start the internal taping of the installed seat panels.