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7:1 to 8:1 conversion

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Andres Chianale
(@Andinista)
Posts: 1228
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 
[#28805]

I'm thinking to modify my mainsheet system for 8:1. Anybody tried this option?

- Invert upper and lower triple blocks
- Add hihger diameter block with becket
- Connecting hardware must keep all blocks parallel

I have enough room for the additional block.

[Linked Image]


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 8:38 am
(@harrymurphey)
Posts: 682
Member
 

Hi,

Please look at Annapolis Performance Sailing ... catolog 2011/pg56 ....

You will find in the upper left corner a pic of a Harkin

Quad Block/ part#H2631 that you can use as your

Boom Block

. Combine that w/ a Harkin part# H2687 (pg57) for your

Bottom Block" and you will have a 8X1 Mainsheet Stack.

Now, I like Lewmar Blocks and have used them for my 7X1 Mainsheet Stack .... but I do have a 8X1 Mainsheet Stack using the Harkin Quad Block since I have been unable to locate a Lewmar Quad Block .... I set the 8X1 Mainsheet Stack up for use on my P19MX to control the mainsail leech ... but ... I found out that there is a big difference between a 7X1 vs 8X1 in the amount/length of mainsheet line that you need to take-in or ease-out. For me it is generally too much ... and I went back to just using the 7X1 systems ...

Harry
H18Mag/P19MX


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 11:25 am
Steve
(@dogboy)
Posts: 1305
Master Chief Registered
 

Interesting idea, but you better verify the load rating on the single upper block. I'd be concerned about pulling the becket off the upper block where you're attaching the triple to the underside of it. The becket is generally intended as a tie-off point and would typically only see the load from one

throw

of the line. In the configuration you've drawn, the becket will see seven times that load.

sm

sm


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 12:12 pm
(@opherdor)
Posts: 49
Lubber Registered
 

I would add a block on the inside, probably a 40mm Harken, on the top becket where you currently end the line. Then add a tie point by creating a loop of 3mm dyneema through the center of the bottom 3 blocks, and attach the end of the line there. Working inside keeps all the loads down, except for the external block fittings, which are designed for the high loads.
Also, you should reeve the line with the top and bottom blocks perpendicular to each other, not parallel. That makes it easier to avoid crossings


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 12:54 pm
Andres Chianale
(@Andinista)
Posts: 1228
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 

I like your idea, it's also easy to test with an existing block. Regarding paralell blocks, I've found that there's more friction with the blocks perpendicular. Crossings is not such a big issue but I never thought that was the reason for using them perpendicular, I'll be testing that too.

Regarding load, what do you think is a reasonable value of total load? (or single segment load)?


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:08 pm
(@opherdor)
Posts: 49
Lubber Registered
 

Loads on the inside are exactly the strength you pull on the line for the line end, and double your pull for the internal block - unless you are a gorilla then several tens kg max. Loads on the outside are 7 - 8 times your pull.
That's why if you mount the block externally it see's much greater loads and will be prone to break


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:17 pm
Andres Chianale
(@Andinista)
Posts: 1228
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 

Right. The question was how much do you think we normally pull


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:18 pm
(@opherdor)
Posts: 49
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Several ten kilograms


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:23 pm
Jake Kohl
(@jake)
Posts: 11744
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shoot...you should try the 10:1 on F18s.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:30 pm
Jake Kohl
(@jake)
Posts: 11744
Three Star Admiral Registered
 

I presume you mean 30 kg or so? I bet it's not quite that much - probably more like 20kg...I bet we surprise ourselves with how low it really is. I've been wanting to do a bench test to see what I pull single and double handed - I would be very interested in some tested information on that.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:32 pm
(@opherdor)
Posts: 49
Lubber Registered
 

I think you're probably right, and Ive been wondering the same. My guess is that the final schlepp out on the wire, with both legs and upper body, is aaround 30


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 1:41 pm
F-18 5150
(@hobie18rich)
Posts: 1343
Member
 
Originally Posted by Jake
shoot...you should try the 10:1 on F18s.

or the new 12:1 on the Wildcat.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 2:17 pm
(@harrymurphey)
Posts: 682
Member
 

Hi,

Are those F18 Mainsheet Stacks (10X1 or 12X1) straight singular ratios ... or ... are they a type of

cascade

system like those developed by Mr Greg Scase for Tornadoes and marketed by Harkin that have two ratios such as 6X1/12X1 that effectively mean they have a

macro

and

micro

modes.

Harry


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 2:24 pm
(@hullflyer)
Posts: 1182
Master Chief Registered
 

There should be enough room to add an 14-16 inch pigtail between the boom and the upper blocks, that will allow you to shorten the mainsheet by at least 8-10 feet when using an 8-1 you can do the same thing with a 7-1.

Originally Posted by HMurphey
Hi,

Please look at Annapolis Performance Sailing ... catolog 2011/pg56 ....

You will find in the upper left corner a pic of a Harkin

Quad Block/ part#H2631 that you can use as your

Boom Block

. Combine that w/ a Harkin part# H2687 (pg57) for your

Bottom Block" and you will have a 8X1 Mainsheet Stack.

Now, I like Lewmar Blocks and have used them for my 7X1 Mainsheet Stack .... but I do have a 8X1 Mainsheet Stack using the Harkin Quad Block since I have been unable to locate a Lewmar Quad Block .... I set the 8X1 Mainsheet Stack up for use on my P19MX to control the mainsail leech ... but ... I found out that there is a big difference between a 7X1 vs 8X1 in the amount/length of mainsheet line that you need to take-in or ease-out. For me it is generally too much ... and I went back to just using the 7X1 systems ...

Harry
H18Mag/P19MX


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 2:27 pm
(@stank)
Posts: 5061
One Star Admiral Registered
 
Originally Posted by Jake
I I've been wanting to do a bench test to see what I pull single and double handed - I would be very interested in some tested information on that.

Well, get you a market (hanging) scale, tie it to the sheet and pull away. Some have a max indicator needle, too. What's that... about $12 USD total?

But being the jakemister you are, you've probably spliced a load sensor into your mainsheet and have it wireless transmit to your wrist computer


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 2:33 pm
 samc
(@samc)
Posts: 925
Chief Registered
 

I don't suggest modifying an existing block system.

Upgraded

an 8:1 system to a 9:1, but the existing block hardware was not beefy enough to handle the loads, found out the hard way 3 days into Tybee.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 3:31 pm
Andres Chianale
(@Andinista)
Posts: 1228
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 
Originally Posted by srm
Interesting idea, but you better verify the load rating on the single upper block. I'd be concerned about pulling the becket off the upper block where you're attaching the triple to the underside of it. The becket is generally intended as a tie-off point and would typically only see the load from one

throw

of the line. In the configuration you've drawn, the becket will see seven times that load.

sm

sm

Checking the numbers, it seems that the limit may be on the sheave rather than the becket:
[Linked Image]

Safe working load for H002, H004 and H076 is 227, 454 and 544 kgs respectively.

454 is 2 times 227 but 544 is not 3 times 227, so I guess the limit is on the sheave for the first two and on the structure for the third one. Probably too much guessing on my analysis, but 227 kg for the single block seems close enough to the 30 kg pull anyway. But on the other hand, not close enough to 1100 kg breaking load, so I would probably try it anyway... Plus, much of the pull tension is lost in friction, so effective loads are actually a lower.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 3:45 pm
Andres Chianale
(@Andinista)
Posts: 1228
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 

Oops... my previous message was entered before reading samc99us's, who is contradicting me with solid proof.......


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 3:47 pm
(@_removed-account)
Posts: 15030
Four Star Admiral Registered
 
Originally Posted by samc99us
I don't suggest modifying an existing block system.

Upgraded

an 8:1 system to a 9:1, but the existing block hardware was not beefy enough to handle the loads, found out the hard way 3 days into Tybee.

On a N20 or F18?


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 3:55 pm
 samc
(@samc)
Posts: 925
Chief Registered
 
Originally Posted by HMurphey
Hi,

Are those F18 Mainsheet Stacks (10X1 or 12X1) straight singular ratios ... or ... are they a type of

cascade

system like those developed by Mr Greg Scase for Tornadoes and marketed by Harkin that have two ratios such as 6X1/12X1 that effectively mean they have a

macro

and

micro

modes.

Harry

10:1 system I've used on the N20 was just like this: http://www.harken.com/OneDesign/tornado.php

I haven't seen a cascading setup (per here: http://www.catsailor.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=185848) on an F18 but somebody's probably tried it.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 4:14 pm
 samc
(@samc)
Posts: 925
Chief Registered
 

N20, but I suspect the leech loads are pretty similar these days on the F18 high aspect ratio mains.


 
Posted : February 16, 2012 4:15 pm
(@walls619)
Posts: 64
Member
 

Any diagram, for harken quad stack main block?


 
Posted : February 18, 2012 11:11 am
F-18 5150
(@hobie18rich)
Posts: 1343
Member
 

I have the 5 block on top with a triple and a double on a becket on bottom . Using a tapered main it works great for me.


 
Posted : February 18, 2012 2:23 pm
(@walls619)
Posts: 64
Member
 

line route for 8-1 main block


 
Posted : February 20, 2012 12:23 am
(@_removed-account)
Posts: 15030
Four Star Admiral Registered
 
Originally Posted by Walls619
line route for 8-1 main block

[Linked Image]


 
Posted : February 20, 2012 9:16 am
(@Anonymous 38725)
Posts: 5859
 

Nice! Thanks for that picture, worth a thousand words. Now I've got to pull mine apart and re-do it right!


 
Posted : February 20, 2012 9:58 am
(@_removed-account)
Posts: 15030
Four Star Admiral Registered
 

Y/w


 
Posted : February 20, 2012 10:32 am
(@walls619)
Posts: 64
Member
 

thanks ,now on to nacra rudder system non pivmatic..pull down line to cam cleat on rear beam continuous line,,schock cord up through rudder control arm?Sound right any decent picture will help possable upgrade;;


 
Posted : February 20, 2012 8:39 pm
(@harrymurphey)
Posts: 682
Member
 

Not so fast ....

Study that diagram closely on how to weave/thread the mainsheet line .... now, if you rotate the single block attached to the camcleat 90*, so that it is orientated ACROSS the axis of the triple and quad blocks, there is a way to weave/thread the mainsheat line w/ no crosses .... so it will operate cleanly ...

Can you fiqure it out??? (Hint: At one point, you will need to thread the mainsheat from the extreme outboard sheave on the Quad Block, down and through the Single Block, and then back up to the other outboard sheave on the Quad Block ...)

Try it ... it works really well, but you need to actually see it/play with-it ... to apprieciate how it works

Note: It works best if the Single Block is the same size sheave as the Triple and Quad Block's sheaves ....

Harry
H18Mag/P19MX


 
Posted : February 21, 2012 11:56 am
Andres Chianale
(@Andinista)
Posts: 1228
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 
Originally Posted by samc99us
I don't suggest modifying an existing block system.

Upgraded

an 8:1 system to a 9:1, but the existing block hardware was not beefy enough to handle the loads, found out the hard way 3 days into Tybee.

This statement suggests that an increase in purchase means necessarily an increase in max load applied. Is that really true? Don't we want to actually lower the pull to acheive similar results? Therefore more pulleys should mean lower load and not higher, except at the connections in both ends, where the total load is applied.

That's assuming that the goal is to distribute the load rather than apply more total tension. Maybe I'm wrong there.. Still, we are talking about a 10 to 15% increase in purchase, which comes with a decrease in overall efficiency because of the higher friction, therefore, the total tension is increeased in less than that. Would that be enough of an increment to break the blocks? If not rearranging blocks too differently (like the single block suggested in the first post) I think it shoudn't


 
Posted : February 21, 2012 12:33 pm
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