Derlin screw

You may ultimately have to drill it out.

Another thing I've done to get a better grip on the screw, is to take that wide screwdriver you've got, heat it up (not cherry red, just hot) with a propane torch, then quickly and firmly stab it into the screw. You'll then perhaps be able to get better leverage on the screw.

Drilling it out is no big deal, as it's obviously needing to be replaced anyway if you're having that kind of trouble.

The old On the Wire web site had a good article on cleaning up the threads after you get the old delrin screws out. All of their articles are now on thebeachcats.com, so you may want to look for that as well.

Cheers!

Tim

I have heated and drilled out several Delrin screws. Most of the plastic can be drilled and screwdrivered out or heated to get it out of the casting. But take it easy with a propane torch- as it kills the anodized color. Then you can buy or borrow a coarse thread pipe tap that fits the threads exactly to clean the corrosion off. (3/4 inch? -I can't remember). Take your almost clean casting to the hardware store and get the right size by screwing a iron pipe nipple part way into it. (Note- a threaded pipe is conical, not cylindrical, so don't put it in very far.

Dave,

Doesn't a pipe tap also have a tapered shape to it?

Jake

It is a 3/4"? National Coarse thread. (or in USA COMMON OR GARDEN VARIETY 3/4" BOLT.It is much cheaper and easier to find a length of 3/4NC stud or threaded rod and saw some slots along the length across the threads. Run this up into the old casting from the underneath. Because it is (corroded?) aluminum, this will clean up and re-cut the threads. The slots give the studs'threads a cutting edge and room for the trash to go. Borrowing a 3/4 NC tap is also good, but you will have to extend it to get it up there and turn it. (Piece of pipe with the end beaten square?)

Thanks, Tim, I think I'll have to drill it out, good thing I already have the new set of screws

Jake,
Thanks again

dacrls,
thanks for the tip