How do I prevent scratching hulls on rocky beach?
I just purchased a Hobie 20 and I am having some problems rigging it.
The lake that I use does not have a sandy beach near the boat launch
area. I don't want to scratch the hulls on a gravel beach. What
options are there for rigging the boat if it is not pulled up on a
beach? I usually step the mast while it is on the trailor, then launch
the boat, pull it up on the gravel beach and rig the boat. I don't
have cat tracks yet (too expensive). I have heard of some sailors
using PVC pipes to pull the boat up onto gravel beaches, but I'm not
sure how you would rotate it into the wind, and rig it. Or, can it be
rigged on the trailor and then launched? I am hesitant to try the
latter because I'm worried the boat could be blown over on the
trailor. I would appreciate any advice.
You can rig the boat with everything ready to go except the jib sheets and raising the main before backing the trailer into the water. Once the boat is off the trailer, have your crew hold the boat into the wind in shallow water while you raise the main and attach the sheets.
Cheers,
Kevin Rose
N6.0na #215
Why not go to your local home inprovement store and get some carpet? We have used carpet before when we needed to turn the boat on it's side to check a problem on the mast.
You could get a piece large enough to sit the boat on while on the gravel beach. The carpet will allow you to move the boat around and turn it into the wind. A cheap alternative to cat tracks and less risky then rigging the boat on the trailer.
I have tried the carpet in the past and it works great as long as the gravel is small. The only problem is when it comes time to go home with that huge piece of soggy wet carpet. Two people cant hardly lift it when soaked. The only solution I came up with was to move to So Cal where there is plenty of sandy beaches. I think your best bet is to build some cat tracks if you have to keep the boat on a rocky beach.
Mark Talla
1992 Prindle 18-2
Hobie 17 (not sailed for 8 years)
Paul-
I have used pieces of plywood before (store between the hulls flat on trailer, seal before use so won't warp (too bad!) or get heavy) and also made some wooden supports by taking 10' long pieces of 2x4's (2 or three), cover the last 2-3 feet of each end with carpet and screwed on
feet
- basically used @ 2' pieces of 1x4 either at ends or in middle (to keep from
rolling
as slide boat on/off). Put one at water's edge, another (or 2) further up beach, pull boat up onto to rig/launch. Put your name/boat number on (can
rope
together also to keep spaced and altogether if want) and seal wood too. Carried on trailer between hulls, lashed down.
Hope this helps!
Kirt
Kirt Simmons
Taipan #159,
A
cat US 48
Out here in the desert (AZ, Fleet42.com) we have something we call the Heinz thing. It's simple, effective, cheap and easy. It's so called because Heinz Smith was the first person to build it hereabouts. It is a rectangular frame of 2 1/2
or 3
sched 40 PVC.
Get 2 10' lengths and 4 90 degree elbows, cut them so they'll drop over the top of your cat box when assembled, and glue them up. The rectangle ends up about 2' X 8', depending on your cat box.
Raise the mast before you take the boat off the trailer and onto the Heinz thing.
(Get cattrax! With cradles!)
Pull the Heinz thing off the cat box and set it parallel to the water, half in half out. Then you launch into the water, and slide the boat back onto the Heinz thing to raise the sails. It works great for many of us, but No Guarantees! You still have to be careful with thos delicate hulls! Put too much weight over one spot and you will do damage. Sail fast.
rigging the boat on the trailor might work, except that pulling up the main while the boat is in the water can be difficult on the H20 because it takes alot of strength to get the sail up high enough to catch on the hook at the top of the mast. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
Paul
When I'm dealing with an uneven bottom I prefer to keep the boat floating. Padding the rocks with carpet may not be sufficient unless the hulls are evenly supported. If the hull is resting on a high point ( i.e. big rock under the carpet, and all of the weight is concentrated on that point, the hull can be damaged. A trailer with good cradles will support the hulls well, as will a sandy beach, but when dealing with a rocky shore, I prefer to keep the boat floating when it's not on the trailer.
I'm curious as to why so much energy is required to get the main up on the H20. Is it that last tug that's tough? Or the whole way up?
Kevin Rose
N6.0na #215
Hey Paul,
Do what I did the first year, borrow cat trax from other sailors, at least if it's at a regatta where there's other sailors around. After doing that the first season, I realized that the trax were worth every penny! I agree, though, they're pretty damn expensive, and it seems like such a waste when you're forking over the bucks.
But then, think about it, a hundred bucks of gelcoat work here, a hundred bucks there, and it doesn't take long for them to pay for themselves.
Good luck,
Tim Johnson
P.S. Carpet may work, but yyyyyyuccccccckkkkkk, waiting for it to dry! Wet boots and gloves are bad enough, I can smell the wet carpet from here!
Hobie 20 #541
Bald Eagle Yacht Club, Fleet 52
White Bear Lake, MN
I'm with Tim on this one. You should consider buying cattrax as just part of the price of buying a boat. They are a neccessity. Florida Sailcraft makes the best ones and they are available through Murrey's Watersports. They make the whole sailing experience so much more enjoyable that they are worth every penny. And they last forever as far as I can tell.
Mike Hill
H20 #791
Hi - I got by borrowing Cat Trax for as long as I could (usually tried to find a launch ramp), but finally bit the bullet and bought a pair with a new boat last year. They are pricey ($400), but they are very high quality and last a lifetime. They are worth every penny.
It is possible to make a home-made set of cattrax, but it will take you many hours of trial and error to find all of the parts, get the right ones that fit together, return wrong parts, etc. Even then, figure on paying up to $200 just for the parts (wheels, tube, bearings, cradles, etc.), not to mention all of the headaches etc. just to end up with a cheap copy. One guy here in San Diego did that, and it works, but his wheels are considerably heavier than real CatTrax and don't roll as easily.
As for raising your main, carefully clean out the luff groove in the mast, then spray the luff rope on the sail with McLube SailKote a couple of times per year (this stuff works like magic).
Sail fast and have fun,
Alan Thompson
I20 - San Diego
Making a cat trax style of beach roller is easy and very cheap. just get some wheel barrow wheels from a hardware store, make sure thay have a big internal ID for the axle. about 50mm (2.5 inches) then buy some poly pipe (plumbers pipe) of the same diameter and a length of heavy wall galvanised or alloy tube. use the poly pipe on either side of the wheels (held by rivets) to locate them and there you go! This solution is not the best but is much better than sitting it on the rocks. You can further refine the rollers by making a mould of the hull at the balance point and then attaching that to the rollers, cover it in carpet and then you have a great setup for next to nothing.
http://www.catsail.com/feature3.htm
Try these. Look good and cheap.
Doug Snell
H17 Sport #6325
Stress Fress
Paul, take a look in the August issue of the Catsailor magazine. On page 46 there is a article on how to build a set of cat trax. They look like they would work pretty good. You could use them to launch and the Heinz thing to park and you should be able to keep your boat like new. I made my Heinz thing with 3 , 10 foot pieces of 2 inch pvc. Cut one in half and use the two 5 foot pieces as the side rails, and attach them all together with four 90's. It works well, and can be used at all angles to keep it pointed into the wind.
Good luck, Heinz
Here you go on the link to On the Wire:
Great site!
Fair winds,
Tim J.
Hobie 20 #541
Bald Eagle Yacht Club, Fleet 52
White Bear Lake, MN
For making the Heinz thing, is there any advantage to using 3 or 4
PVC over 2
? Also, what about separation: is 4' better than 2'? I guess this may depend on how wide your trailor is, because I'm thinking of putting the Heinz thing between the hulls on my trailor (I don't have a box yet).
Thanks for the help,
Paul
H20 #714
Paul:
I was wrong. I did use 3, 10' sections to make mine. You need it to be big enough to allow it to drop over the cat box, and my cat box is almost 10' long. Also, the extra width beyond the sides of the boat are what allow for you to turn it into the wind.
The diameter of pipe is important for getting the hulls above the rocks. Too small and the rocks will stick up past the Heinz thing. Too big and your boat perches so high it rocks back and forth. 2
seems to be perfect. It is large enough to keep the thing from sinking into the mud , but small enough to be manageable with the other considerations. Mine is 1 1/2
and is really too small unless I clear some rocks away from the area and stay out of the mud where it just sinks in... 2" is also the right $$.
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