Dan,
No, I don't have any line that big. It would take longer. But I think it is harder to tie it with a little string than with a fat rope.
I will try that, although I may be too old now to learn new knots. 
Usually I use the clove hitch for tying to dock pilings, but it is always followed up with two half hitches, because I don't trust the clove hitch alone.
I have heard that a clove hitch (and rolling hitch, too, probably) are not a good way to tie dock lines for long periods of time because they cause too much wear on the lines -- that it is better to just wrap the line around the post a few times and secure with two half hitches.
Bowline: I use a bowline whenever I need a temporary loop that will not slip. As everybody says, it's one of the most all-around useful knots to know. I use the rabbit-and-hole method of tying. The trick is to make sure the tree is behind the hole.
Two-half-hitches: I use this knot sometimes when tying a line to a post (mooring a boat to a piling) for a short period of time. It works best if there is constant tension on the line. Otherwise, it will eventually work itself loose.
Cleat hitch: Of course, I use this to make a line fast to a cleat.
Rolling hitch: I've seen different knots called the rolling hitch. I use it only infrequently - usually only when towing multiple small boats. I'll drag one tow line behind, and have each of the small boats tie their painters to that line with a rolling hitch.
Sheet bend: This knot is superior in almost every respect to the reef knot (but not as good as the carrick bend). It works well for bending together two lines of different diameter. Be careful to tie it correctly, as it will spill if tied wrong.
Reef knot: Never, ever use a reef knot to bend two lines together unless you simply don't care much about them. A sheet bend is much stronger and more secure. A reef knot does work pretty well for tying a string around something, though - so it works for reefing sails. A slipped reef knot is typically just the thing in that case. A double-slipped reef knot (aka bow knot) is good for tying shoes 
. Take care to avoid the granny knot as it is not secure, and can be very difficult to untie.
Figure eight knot: This is typically my stopper knot of choice. Tie it in the end of any line you don't want to slip through an eye. It is compact, holds well, is easy to tie, and easy to untie.
Constrictor knot: The constrictor knot is a neat little knot. It gets tighter the more you pull on it and does not come loose. DO NOT EVER TIE IT AROUND ANY PART OF YOUR BODY! It works best in string. I use it to start off simple whippings and permanent lashings. I also use it to keep twisted lines from unraveling when splicing.
Bowline on a bight: I use this rarely, only when I need a slip-free loop in the middle of a line.
Anchor bend: This is not what I was taught as an anchor bend. I would not use the pictured knot at all. If you do, it will come undone and you will lose your anchor. I use an anchor bend (or similar knot) to bend a line to a ring. It has the advantage of reducing chafe.
Eye splice: I use this as a permanent loop in the end of a line.
Trucker's hitch: I have not had occasion to use this knot. I usually tie down tarps with a bowline in one end of the line, running the end through the loop to cinch it down, and then secure with a taut-line hitch.
Carrick bend: This is a great knot. I use it to bend two lines together. It is very strong and secure but easy to untie. It collapses into two bowline knots (each around the other) when pulled taut.
Clove hitch: When mooring for brief periods of time, I'll drop a clove hitch over the top of a piling. I also use it to begin a temporary lashing. It should be kept under constant tension or it will work loose.
Taut-line hitch: Not shown, but very useful. It allows you to tie an eye loosely and then cinch it up. It works well for temporary guy-lines and tie-downs.
Well, that's what I use them for, anyway.
Regards,
Eric
The load on a clove hitch should be perpendicular to the pole (or standing piece). The load on a rolling hitch should be parallel (or a very acute angle) to the pole. In either case, if the direction of the load is wrong, the knot can slip. Choose the knot that best fits your purpose.
Regards,
Eric
The load on a clove hitch should be perpendicular to the pole (or standing piece). The load on a rolling hitch should be parallel (or a very acute angle) to the pole. In either case, if the direction of the load is wrong, the knot can slip. Choose the knot that best fits your purpose.
Regards,
Eric
I've read that, but it's never made sense to me. With an additional wrap around the pole, how could a rolling hitch be less secure tham a clove with a perpendicular load?
The "cow hitch" aka "ring hitch" works quite well for attaching sheets to the jib clew. I might not trust it in slick material like spectra or dyneema, but I've never seen it come loose in double-braid polyester line. I use it regularly for single-purchase jib sheets.
Regards,
Eric
One handed bowline video
I took a couple of minutes to put together a video showing how a one handed bowline it tied. I was going to explain it but realized that seeing it would be so much better.
Later,
Dan
If you cannot see the WMV of Bowline
I was just messing around a wondered what I could do about making the Movie an Animated GIF file. It is about the same size but there may be some who cannot see the WMV so I thought I would put it in the Photos section.
Later,
Dan
Gary, A coast guard friend showed taught me that version. He called it a flying bowline. The loop he would make with it was big enough to get over your head-arms for rescue. However I told him In my case he could take the extra time and make sure he tied it the slow way. 
I had to learn that one when I went out backpacking in New Mexico. Many of the trails were went on were right along the endge of 30-40' drops. It works well if you fall and break one arm. Someone can toss the end of a line down to you and you can wrap it around yoru self and tie the bowline with your unbroken arm and they can haul you back up.
Dan
I learned a similar version as a boy in the Sea Scouts
The point was to tie it on a line thrown to you from a moving boat if you went overboard. You used one hand to hold on to the line as you were dragged along, and the other to tie the bowline around yourself. BUT, you had to insert only your finger tips to flip over the loop, not your entire hand, in case you didn't manage to detension the line with your other hand.... We used to practice ashore with a friend yanking on the line .... got quite a few bruised fingers till we got the hang of it 
. I've been tying single handed ever since
Opher:
I was trying to make sure it showed up on video and I think that using the whole hand is easier to see.
Dan
Dan
Can you edit the gif to slow the animation down?
Bobcat:
If you send the video to full screen, then right click you can change the speed of the video with Windows Media Player.
Doug