Does anyone know where I can get the bracket/platform for mounting the pivoting cleat and fairlead that controls the traveler? (See photo)
sailmax.biz has them.
I believe you could probably order one from the online store if you knew the nacra part for the stock 6.0 traveller arrangement.
I believe you could probably order one from the online store if you knew the nacra part for the stock 6.0 traveller arrangement.
NACRA Part Number for the 6.0 Traveler car is 3513, for the Inter 20 it is 3518
Just happen to have the NACRA parts book handy
its not the car he's looking for, its the center post.
That's correct. I'm looking for the metal bracket that is riveted to the front side of the rear crossbar and holds the pivoting cleat and fairlead. This may be an aftermarket fabricated part, but I'm not sure
FOUD IT. SailMax has a very cool composite version. Thanks for the help
I've got 2 of them for sale here...used...save some $$
When I bought one 2 years ago I had to buy it used, cause they were not being made by performance anymore, I would guess that is why there are now composite ones for sail.
PC doesn't have the aluminum ones anymore.
as a side note, I find that when driving off the wind and not trapping, that post is great to stand on to keep yourself on the boat.
Make sure you got some good rivets in it 
I'd consider some sort of backing to reinforce the beam wall when you mount that center post. I recall earlier versions were drilled in and washers with locknuts placed in the beam to distribute the load...
I scrounged up an aluminum 6.0 casting for my F18 and it's been holding on there fine with the rear beam simply tapped for threaded screws. Mike w/ Sailmax recommends bedding his mount with 5200 and attaching it with two 1/4-20 screws also tapped into the rear beam. His boat had a lot of miles on it that way.
How would you get any kind of backing that deep into the crossbar?
Nut on a batten with putty caulk. Been there, done that, and got the t-shirt. Getting it tight? Well...it involves duct tape.
OK, Jake, that's a little cryptic. I get the part about the batten and putty, but can you elaborate on the duct tape? I'd like to have one of those T-shirts, too.
Steve,
wrap a small wrench around the end of your tiller stick and putty the lock nut in the wrench. Then you can tighten... Lining up the lock nut is the hardest part... But I don't have the T-shirt...
Oooo...you deserve a t-shirt. I never thought about puttying the nut in the wrench. I used two steps. nut and putty on a batten, then taped the wrench to the batten to tighten. I didn't use nylocks so when the nut started to get tight, it pretty much dug in and didn't need much effort from the wrench. Some blue locktight might not be a bad idea.
I used wax in the socket (melted candle) and loaded the nylok nut. I taped the socket wrench to the batten, attached the socket w/nut, aligned the nut to the screw and tightened with a screwdriver (with help from my wife). I did this in several places on the back beam of the A2 because the rivets for attaching the tramp were breaking (since corrected by the factory).
That's a good idea. Jake's right, you deserve a T-shirt. I'm going to get one of the carbon fiber models and use your idea with the wrench attach it to the beam.
Thanks.
Hey, while we're sort of on the subject. Why does the N20 traveler line have a twin tail and ties to two different spots on the back beam?
Many boats do this.
It is a better way of ensuring the traveller is held in the centre when under load upwind. A single line tends to allow the traveller to move slightly off centre.
Remeber that when you torque the bolt with the scredriver it could possibly break the tape on the end of the batten/tiller extension, so try an aluminum piece that is "u" shaped to fit the wrench into.
I've fitted all my traveller tracks by bolting the track to the beam and taping a ring spanner to a batten.
I put a small piece of tape in the ring and press the nyloc nut in. Then sit a washer on top and duralac on top of the washer to prevent a corrosion between the beam and washer.
It takes a steady hand some patience and an assistant to make this happen.
The invent of the electrc screw driver was a godsend for this job.
BTW:- I've just taped the spanner to the batten with masking tape and never had a problem.