High Wind Boat Righting

Trying to right the boat in the manner you describe will not work. Minimally, the bows need to face the wind and the "power right" position (wind quartered between the bow and mast) is even better. Putting crew weight on the bow or stern will swing the boat around. This is a little tricky on the H16 because of the low bow/stern hull volumes.

The power right technique is explained in Rick White's Cat Racing for the 90's book and on at least one of his videos (not sure which one). Highly recommended.

Thanks,

The other weekend, I had thought about trying to swim to the tip of my mast, to try to create enough drag to get the boat to turn to the wind, but I think it would have went turtle before I could have done anything. I finally got a kid on a Jet Ski to turn me into the wind, and the boat stood right up.

Do you think it would help to have two righting lines? At this time, I only have one with a knot tied in it, so I can hook my trap harness to it. I have my crew stand between my legs and lean back to me, holding the line.

I did stuff my righting bag in my tramp pocket...guess being disqualified is better than floating forever...lol

David

Had this very problem this past saturday. I'm 220 and my crew is 160-170. If either of us were too far back on the hull, the wind would hit the underside of the trampoline and it would go right back over or straight backwards if the wind was really gusting. If both of us stayed near the front crossbar, it would come right over with little or no problem.

Just don't let go of that boat. My GPS showed a sustained capsized speed of 1.5-2.5 MPH! First time we flipped we travelled almost half a mile since it took us 3 or 4 tries to bring it flat again.

Steve

H16 #72261

Steve,

That is the first time that I had heard how fast one drifted. What a "trip". I have had to drift across the lake before and right it on shore. We do have a nasty rock dam that I do not care to drift up on. I am glad it is Friday; my boat is calling me to come out and play.

Have a nice weekend,

David

You can also swim the bow around into the wind.

My righting line runs from the rear pylon around the front pylons to the other rear pylon with enough slack for the skipper and crew to stand side by side on the bottom hull and hang out approx. 45 degrees from vertical in order to right the boat. During sailing, the righting line slack is taken up under the tramp either with bungee (Hawaiian system, sold in the catalogs) or coiled and/or tied up. This system is a little more user friendly than a single line IMO.

Dave, shroud extenders are now class legal for Hobie Cats. You just have to reset prior to racing, after righting. This makes righting much easier. Caleb Tarleton

Thanks Caleb,

I think shroud extenders would be great. Time to dig into the catalog.

Dave

In the situation you described, you may want to try to roll the boat over when the sail is downwind and standing on the bow or stern doesn’t seem to help.

We call it “cork screwing” the boat. We move all our weight to the stern such that the bows are pointing straight in the air (UP), then climb on the other hull (the one that was over our heads. This all happens very quickly, you just need to commit to the role and the boat will spin downwind putting the sails upwind. Be sure not to leg go of the boat/righting line through the role.

Bob O

Wow, I am trying to picture this in my mind. I would love to see someone perform this technique. Check me out on this: does your weight on the stern cause enough drag to cross the wind to the top side of the tramp, then you switch sides of the boat to drive the other hull down resulting with your sails ending up on the windward side?

This is really interesting,

David

Hi Dave, I think you got it .

In most cases your fiends tip about moving your weigh to the bow or stern works to rotate the sail towards the wind. But sometimes (usually after a pitch pole) when you move back (from bow or stern) to the center of the boat to “rite” the boat it goes right back to where it was. It can be very frustrating.

As you know the 16 is very unstable when it’s on its side and it is very easy to sink the bow or stern. As you begin to move your weight back to the stern, the angel to the wind begins to change and it is no longer directly at your back When you continue to sink the stern, the bows are lifted (UP), the Jib is also lifted up catching wind and helping role the boat to the other hull. This changes the resistance of the boat in the water and the boat/sail swings a ~180 degrees because the tramp is now moving downwind of the sail (hold on).

Usually we only need to do this when it’s really windy. Once the bows are up in air the wind will do the rest. The quicker the role the better. To give you a time frame, my wife and I can role and rite the boat from a pitch pole in under a minute. Unfortunately, we had plenty of practice in your area at the 16 continentals in South Padre (a windy event).

If you‘re going to practice this in a light to moderate wind day, be sure not leave the boat on it’s stern too long as it will begin to go Turtle. You want to move the boat from standing on one hull to the other as quickly as you can.

We have done this the opposite way by sinking the bows (very windy days) but it’s very hard on the sails and rudders and I avoid it if I can.

Hopefully this helps and Good luck.

Bob