Mainsheet blocks

Ok, as I understand it, the 2629 and 2630(becket) are ratchmatic (load sensing ratchet) no need to be able to reach the block to turn on off the ratchet. Yes carbo is lighter but also SHOULD be easier to use.
From the harken website
http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/SCCYSPW1

- Ratchet senses load and engages automatically
- Shifts seamlessly between ratchet and light air modes
- Adjustable ratchet engagement
- Free release under light load

the 194 and 2194 (hardest to adjust the angle on) have a on/off switch

This is why I am going with this block price is only a small percentage more.

Sam

GREAT THREAD!!!!!!

Now, this may sound somewhat lame, but, are there "standard" line colors for main and jib sheets? I am thinking of a red/black color theme for my H16. I am ALMOST more interested in line color than quality. I really want to use as close to solid black for the main sheet and red for Jib.

So it is either the Maffioli mentioned here or the New england Ropes Sta-Set series. I like the Sta-set because it looks cooler.

What say all you sailers?

Thanks
Sam

There is no "standard" main/jib sheet color. For a long time (until recently), Hobie Cat used a red, fuzzy line for the main and a blue one for the jib. I think they were Sampson or Yale brand line (Matt M. can say for sure).

If you're choosing between the Swiftcord and the Sta-set, I'd go with the Swiftcord. Your hands will thank you. Sta-set has a hard finish and is stiffer. Swiftcord is soft and will run through blocks without hockling (twisting up).

With that Information, now all I have to do is wait for the Tax refund to hit the account and than with a few clicks here and few clicks there here a click there a click wait few days and the boat has a few new parts.

And that can't be a bad thing.

Sam

PS. Anybody looking for a really old (32 years)set of seaway main blocks??

Sam - I think the 194's are easier to adjust the angle on. From Matt's previous post:

Mac05,

I agree:

194 - easiest to adjust angle - have to touch block to turn on/off ratchet

2600 series harder to adjust angle - (should be) auto on/off load sensing ratchet w/ adjustable sensing.

2100 series ratchets - seems to be Major Pain to adjust angle and have to touch block to turn on off ratchet.

Since I will probably not be racing and more of the set it and forget it type, the 2600 series seems be the best bet.

If it were a matter of $60 - $70 differance, I would go with the 194 but at at less than $40 diff, I like the ratchmatic.

Now, is there a need for the top blocks to be ratcheted(ratchmatic)?
What would be gained or lost?

Thanks
Sam

The ratchet adds drag to the line holding power. I can't imagine the need to have two ratchet sheaves. Too much drag possibly. You also risk having the ratchets on or off at differing times. I would rather have control over when they are on or off.

Hobie cat has used a variety of lines over the years. Curently the lines are Marlow:

<<Excel Marstron
Excel Marstron is the perfect lightweight floating mainsheet for small dinghies. Excel Marstron has a braided core and smooth profile 16 plait cover of non-water absorbing floating Marstron. The smooth cover provides greater feel and faster running through blocks.>>

8mm Mainsheet and 6mm Jib Sheet.

Having an upper and lower ratchmatic will negate the need for the cleat totally. It is sometimes used be serious racing crews on modern boats to allow constant fine tuning of the mainsheet with very little line pull when not trimming. The same trick with double auto ratchets is used on spinnaker sheet, almost universally by now and it works great there. No trouble with ratchets turning off and on a t different times as they simple won't do that. The top ratchet will always engage before the lower one and disengage later.

The difference in sustained static holding power is massive. You go from about 1:6 on the partly wrapped lower ratchets to 1:60 of the combo. It will almost feel as it the sheet is in a cleat. But when you push the sheet towards the blocks then the line will run through the mainsheet system rather quickly. You'll have to use AUTO ratchet for both blocks otherwise it won't work well.

Wouter

Thanks Wouter,(sort of)

I thought I was ready to order, but now I have to think about this part also,(probably not too long tho).

If I wanted a quad block on top, how would you set that up with the ratchmatic? Harken does not have a quad or trip ratchmatic without a cam, they do have single and double. A trip none ratchmatic with a single side by side some how?

Maybe I missed the quad alltogether.

Thanks
Sam

Don't do it...

Keep it simple. 6:1 with the standard hexaratchet system in the lower cleating block. Triple lower and triple upper. It works.

I agree with Matt on this one. A bit overkill to it otherwise on the H16.

Wouter

You don't want to over-complicated an otherwise simple boat. You may have heard of the KISS axiom: Keep It Simple Stupid.

When you add complicated parts to a mechanism you are asking for it to fail at an inopportune time. Unless you really need the "upgraded" feature it is not worth the cost or risk of failure.

I understand the need to have neat gadgets. I am a techie myself.

Like I said, I only needed to think on this for a very short time. I live by KISS (most of the time). This time I will keep it simple also.

Thanks for all of your input.
Sam

Have to get new blocks and sheet as mine got lost/stolen???
Lent some Nacra F18 blocks which I had to modify (too high...)
Have seen so many reactions already that I'm rather confused. Sailing quite often alone and with less mast rake (like a neutral steering behaviour as I only got 2 hands...) also with rather much wind the 6:1 is on the edge. Although I like to think I'm having quite a physical condition I have my limits when sailing for a couple of hours..

Read your (Rick White) comment stating you like the 8:1 option with a lite mainsheet. See quote below:

Might enable to sail longer and with les/no use of the clamps? Checked some sites but cannot find the 8:1 blocks you are refering to. I assume both blocks have 4 sheaves on a row (low profile required) and the lower with cleat as well.

Do you use the 1/4

mainsheet for the full length or id you keep the last 3 m' (12') the original thickness? And what length do you use?

Can somebody (Rick ??) give me some help?

Thanks in advance / greeting from Europe

Eddie #99173 [1992]

Here is the URL listing all the sheeting systems.
http://store.catsailor.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=331
and be sure to check both pages.

You can find this by clicking on Blocks in the left index, then Sheeting Systems.
Good luck,
Rick

Hey everybody, I have a Hobie 14 Turbo that still has the old 4 to 1 Seaway blocks, and when it's really blowing I have a hard time getting block to block (must be getting old). So, I'm thinking about a new sheeting system, my question is what should I go with, find a sixteen owner who is upgrading their 5 to 1 system and buy their old Seaways (cheapest), buy a new 5 to 1 low profile Harken setup, or buy a new 6 to 1 low profile Harken setup (most expensive)? Maybe try what Rick was talking about and go with 1/4

or maybe 5/16

on a 6 to 1 setup would be the best or would 6 to 1 be overkill on a 14? <img src=

alt=

/> Thanks for any advice.

I used the advice from all and purchased the 194/153 6:1 combo for my H16. I really like the adjustability of the cleating angle because when the kids want to sail I can quickly move the angle up to make it easier for them to pop the cleat. 6:1 is all you need with a properly working ratchet system. I had to go down a sheet size so that it would run through the blocks quickly in a blow. I am now using 44 feet of 3/8" and it's excellent.

Mac

After this last weekend, I have to strongly dissagree with the PITA, It took me all of 4 minutes to adjust the angle the first time and maybe 3 minutes the second time on the 2630. I did have to do it twice because the first time everybody suggested go 3 notches, when 2 was really enough.

Yes they are more expensive then the non-carbo, but the ratchmatic is real nice.

and with a becket on both top and bottom, I could rig it 6,7 or 8(w/added pully):1

Right now it is 7:1 and again, 46 or 48 feet of 9mm red Maffioli Swiftcord

Very very happy.

Sam

As my complete mainsheet go lost / stolen last year I’m still using the set of a fellow catsailer.
Although a great lead indeed I’m getting a little confused now. I’ll try to explain:

My 1992 H16 is more or less standard (I think..). Mats rake I adjust reluctantly. In 5-th position (from below) the steering is neutral which I think is a major advantage – especially when sailing alone. In 4-th or even 3-rd hole she will immediately turn into the wind when releasing the joystick. Added bushes (Hobie Tiger) and new rods in the rudders so play is close to zero now. Rudder blades are in max forward position.
But even in 5-th hole I manage to sail “block to block” quite easily – with a 6:1 configuration. How should I be able to use a 8:1 set (Ricks’ recommendation) as I don’t have enough height available. Is my main sail worn out? I doesn’t look that way. I connect both blocks – to traverse ar and beam – with shackles only, to keep profile as low as possible.

By the way: Mast rake is still a tricky business for me anyway. Maybe I am not sensitive / skilled enough but tacking is not my favourite course. And when the nose dips you’ll loose in most cases anyway. But isn’t that half the thrill?

Hope somebody can give me some advice.

Eddie
The Netherlands
# 99173

Have you looked at the 8:1's? They use the 2.25 blocks adding another sheave to the top block and a small block on the becket of the lower set. Therefore I wouldn't expect the stacked height to be that different.

No need for any more than 6:1 on a 16. Esp if you are single handing alot!!

Another note, new sails and new shrouds are sized to accomodate more rake. If you have long (old) shrouds &/or sails you will not be able to get the rake & rig tension desired.