Boat Configs

Not until I figure out how to post a picture next to each description. MM do you find that your are sailing beter on one tack than the other and you are getting blown away in light air and can't point worth a damn..?

I guess I'll break my little suggestion and reply to this thread . . . .

My boat is pretty consistent on port/starboard tacks, so I think I got lucky dialing in the diamond wire tension. I just think I don't have enough tension or enough spreader rake for it to have the desired affect.

I think it is incredibly odd that I need to completely loosen the battens to get any kind of performance out of the sail. Before I loosened the battens, I couldn't point worth a damn. Once I tried setting them loose, I could point as high as everyone else and the downhaul and other controls would actually change the shape of the sail (go figure!). Obviously, this isn't right and it leads me to believe that with a tuned pre-bend, I'll be able to add a little batten tension and get even better performance (that's my theory, and I'm sticking to it).

Thanks,
Mike

I would have to go measure a few things to be accurate, however certain setting are dependent on whether you sails are full or flat to start with.

I have a Saintoge and a Sabre. The Saintoge is flatter than the Sabre. With that in mind I'll give you some of my settings.

Dia. tension,
is about 450lbs. with a loos gauge. That's pretty much where I leave it. I think you can get close to that setting by making sure you diamonds don't loosen when sheeted hard to weather and then put a couple turns on each turnbuckle.

My spreader rake
is 1 3/4". When you have a lot of spreader rake and you sheet in the mast may be bending to much, flatting the sail to early.

My rotator
is pointed just forward of my shroud. That's the max power position. I adjust from there as needed.

Outhaul,
Snug enough that when sheeted hard to weather a wrinkle starts to form along the foot. Be careful not to get it too tight because the harder you sheet the tighter it will get. Mark it for future reference. With the chute I never change it from that position. Without the chute I'll crack it an inch or so downwind.

If your sails are old the bolt ropes most likely have shrunk. If that's the case when you downhaul the main just to get the wrinkles out your probably bending the mast too much to start with. When I say old, anything over a 1 year.

A good sail maker will stitch the bolt rope only at the top and leave a tail sticking out at the bottom so as the rope shrinks it doesn't pull the sail with it.
You can fix this yourself or you can have someone do it for you.

Mast rake,
I have a Hobie 18 furler on my boat. I like the way it works and parts are easily availible at the local Hobie store. It's very easy to adjust rake. One other nice thing about it was I had to get longer bridles to keep the jib at the same height as the stock set up. Also the H furler's mounting points are slighty wider than the stock system. The effect while small is the bridles are pulling on the bows more vertically instead of together. I've seen a friends head stay that had a turn buckle almost unwind it's self when he furled the jib. Yea he probably didn't tighten the lock nuts enough but still...

To measure the rake grab a trap handle and undo the shockcord. Tie a few feet of smaller line to the handle,dogbone,etc. Take the line forward to the top of the bridle pin. Pull down while holding the line until your thumb touches the pin. Hold that spot and go to the back of the boat. Your thumb should touch the aft part of the rear beam about halfway between the track and the deck. This is a good starting point.

I have a stock M6.0 spin pole. The length is 13'. I'm using a tornado chute.

Some thoughts on the mast straight up thing on Mystere 6.0's

I think there are two problems. The foot of the sail is too long and loads the rudders too much with any rake. Add to that any belly cuz of a loose outhaul and it's ugly at the helm. The other thing is I don't think there is a enough rudder blade forward of the piviot point of the rudder..I'm not sure if the Mystere system will allow you to kick them under the boat enough to balance the helm with any rake of the mast.

Rudders,
My boat has a Nacra 6.0 system. The rudders are tiny compared to the Mystere's. In fact they're 7 inches shorter. However I've got the boat sailing well with them. They're raked pretty far forward. I think something like a Tornado rudder would be perfect.

Something you might want to try is sailing to weather without rudders. On my boat I can get the jib and main sheeted fairly tight with the traveler about 4- 5 inches out and the boat sails with almost no adjustments. That's with two people on board in about 12 mph wind speed.

I may be wrong but to me it seems as though the boat is fairly well balanced if you can do that. Then you would travel in drop one rudder and rake it for a light helm, then do the other side and you should be pretty close.

Anyway a few ideas to try and or discuss.

Hey Mike .. thanks so much for all of that info.

It took me a while to realize I was over-sheeting the main.

I liked your tips on setting the outhaul and mast rake. I 'll be sure to give them a try.

Can't wait to sail again!

Thanks again.

- Mike

Mmurphy, sorry if you took my reply wrong but I think I need to almost show pictures of of exactly what I have in equipment..and how it is set up in in action as there is now many options. I did recently pick up a I 20 spinaker . And have a lot of stuff from a Marstom Tornado, beams,tapered mast, sails,runing rigging and standing too they are the same style as the Mysteres also would like to stuff those nice wooden centreboards into the M6.0..Right now I think I have to much prebend in the mast but it points so high, I was able to cover a N6.0 and I had the helm all over the place I finally really got it in groove. Bob Grubb...........

Don't tell anyone else. There are some good tips in this thread.
here

So those guys snorkeled an I20 and put in park waited for it and used it as a sailing drill."Nice".That's a happy story ,makes you wonder what the hell this arms race is with the F this and F that. "What you see everyday ,we covet agent Starling" Catman what are the sail numbers to your boat.And yes Hans is on the tape loud and clear.

LOL,

No numbers on the sail I got. Simply Pomodoro vertically in large red letters.

The sabre is 2112 and my next sail 2112 probably Glaser.

This might make sense to you:

.........
If a sailor inserts a batten with no pressure on it, can he expect to
have a batten that will have no compression? No. When the sail is
removed and laid down upon a flat surface, the luff and leech are free
to span farther away from one another than they are able to span when
hoisted. This makes the batten pocket lay across a longer distance than
the actual chord length of the sail. This means that if a sailor
inserted a batten to take up all of this luff to leach distance, that
the same batten would be under compression when the sail is hoisted.
Also, If the leach is lifted off of the flat surface (work bench) to insert the
batten, the length of the batten pocket will be longer than when flat.

Because the sailor has these dynamic changes working against his
attempts to set the proper settings for the battens, he must ease them, then
hoist the sail to check their setting. After a series of hoists and
adjustments he will find the setting that he wants to test sail.

If a sail that has been fully depowered and flattened-out using mast
bend and all the other applicable sail trim techniques is showing
compressed battens that are snake shaped, then the battens are
over-stuffed and need to be eased.

An elementary problem that some sailors have with battens is when they
can not seem to get the sail to be flat enough to allow the battens to
straighten out. This problem is often solved by bending the mast or
simply learning how to properly depower a sail.

Mast Bend and Sail Cut in a Rotating Rig
2003 Gary Friesen

Here is a picture of my mainsail when flat. Let me describe the occasion. My crew Bill Mattson and I were in irons on ten to twelve foot seas, in Windy Lane in the Santa Barbara Channel, about 20 miles offshore from the Southern California coastal town of Santa Barbara. (Tiger Worlds) The surface wind was in excess of 25 knots; averaging somewhere around 30 knots (documented by nearby weather buoy recordings and our gps track log). This picture was shot from the boom, looking straight up.

We had just beat upwind in 15 knot wind, building to 30 knot wind for 5 hours or more. This was our first "biology break" of the day.

To critique my sail trim, I can point out to you that you can see that the top, unstayed portion of the mast is bending sideways to Lee (to Starboard, away from the camera). This is causing the "hound" to bend to windward. Had I used more mast rotation, I would have had less inversion of the draft in the upper sail as the mast would have bent on its minor axis, back toward the windward side of the sail.

So Gary in this photo you have no mast rotation and on your highest point of sail possible.Right?Because it would seem that this sail is stalled out.What happens when you point the the mast to the shrouds ? Would the boat shoot forward. Just asking because I know this look and is usually in suvival mode for me with the boat slugging along in the waves.!

I love that shot of your super-flat sail. Pretty cool. Thanks for the info Gary. I always enjoy reading your posts.

all along, I've figured that something is terribly awry, but I guess it's just me.

So it looks like I need to adjust battens on the stick. Sounds like a royal pain in the butt, but I'll give it a whirl once it warms up here.

So I have some sound advise on setting diamond wire tension, sound advise on setting batten tension, a good mast rake setting, a collection of Mystere sailing tips . . . I should finally be kicking some serious butt this year.

Thanks again to all for the info.

Mike

sail numbers taken from the spreaders.