Probably trivial to most but after a few “passionate” feedback moments from crew trying to manage split rings during mast stepping or rudder fixing I set out for a cheep quick solution. Yes there is a widely available mixed pack from Seachoice that runs $15+ but it’s pricey and there are several sizes I’d never need.
After much research I settled on https://www.e-rigging.com/047-x-6-Stainless-Steel-Cotter-Ring? and sacrificed the cost of pizza to buy 2x everything I need on a regular basis. The majority of the cost is shipping and you should only be out $1-2 on parts. (
Having just received the product I couldn’t be happier. The gauge of wire is solid but still easily managed. The outer tang allows for easy one handed installation. The center tang allows easy one handed separation of the rings and removal. Looking forward to stepping and using in anger next week but would highly recommend thus far.
Edited by carbonc on Feb 18, 2022 - 12:03 AM.
I have used those for years - yes they are easier to get on
they are also a million times easier to snag on a line, sail, shorts, shirt, pdf, etc. and bend and foul
Seen them snag on crew shorts, get fouled and bent, then fail
I have been on a few boats where the rig falls over due to a failed ring (not specifically the kind we are talking about but any kind can snag)
ALWAYS tape up your rings or risk a failure - ymmmv
Edited by MN3 on Feb 18, 2022 - 11:37 AM.
This is a great idea. My brother in law has arthritis in his hands and can't manipulate most stainless rings. I think I'll need to add a few items to justify the fact the shipping is 3x the cost of 20-rings. Still not a complete show stopper.
million times easier to snag on a line, sail, shorts, shirt, pdf, etc. and bend and foul
Appreciate the feedback and concern. I’m only using them for a couple commonly disconnected points. On my 5.5 that’s the bridal foil to hull connections, the forestay to foil connection, one of the shrouds, and the main rudder pintles (between tiller cheek castings and gudgeons). All of those are places well out of the way for contact or line fouling (bridle due to location, shroud due to chain plate covers, and rudders due to being up and under the tiller arm.
Agreed you wouldn’t want these uncovered near crew locations (aboard or in a capsize and righting)
MN3 wrote: I have used those for years - yes they are easier to get on
they are also a million times easier to snag on a line, sail, shorts, shirt, pdf, etc. and bend and foulSeen them snag on crew shorts, get fouled and bent, then fail
I have been on a few boats where the rig falls over due to a failed ring (not specifically the kind we are talking about but any kind can snag)Second that especially if well off shore. Tape it all
ALWAYS tape up your rings or risk a failure - ymmmvEdited by MN3 on Feb 18, 2022 - 11:37 AM.
Agreed you wouldn’t want these uncovered near crew locations (aboard or in a capsize and righting)
:prost:Edited by MN3 on Feb 18, 2022 - 05:14 PM.
This one works well with the rudder pin, it’s thicker that the typical rings
Has anyone Switched their gudgeons over to pintles like on Getaways? Thinking of taking existing rods, welding each to gudgeon after turning 2 fine grooves in the rods... Then, can use the EZ clips to speed up rudder attachment... Or replace with stock units.
Any downsides? Always looking for ways to speed up setup.
https://www.murrays.com/product/nacra-rudder-gudgeon-upper-countersunk/
https://www.murrays.com/product/rudder-gudgeon-lower-countersunk/
https://www.murrays.com/product/56-1002/
I installed these fon my N5.5. They are totally worth the money. Issues I had: I thought I could reuse the existing bolts, then I realized what “countersunk” means… Also it slightly interferes with the plug base, so i used a couple washers to separate it. I could probably have rotated the plug base a bit or redril the holes for the gudgeon a couple mm higher, but I was too lazy for that… only the lower pair of holes can be reused, the upper ones don’t match
Edited by Andinista on Feb 20, 2022 - 08:22 PM.
Unfortunately I could only change it on one side, one of my castings is broken and repaired in a way that the clip doesn’t work