I 'misplaced' my tiller crossbar and a friend gave me one. It is from probably an older boat with a 'traditional' connection. The rudders (and my boat) are probably newer with the H-20 Miracle tiller. Attached shows the two ends.
Does anyone know of a way to make these mate?
Assuming you want to go with the Miracle 20 connectors (which are far superior to the old style ones), you need to install three new parts on that old crossbar...adjustment arm, threaded end cap, and non-threaded end cap: Parts Murray's is showing them in stock. If the individual parts don't come with instructions, here they are for the entire kit: Instructions
During the installation, pay close attention to which way is up/down, port/starboard on the old crossbar (yoke for hiking stick attachment must tilt forward). My daugter and I recently installed the entire kit (including tiller parts) on her H14, and it wasn't bad if you are familiar with doing such things (removing/installing rivets, drilling metal, etc.). (In Figure A of the Instructions, I believe we substituted some self tapping screws rather than tapping...just make sure the screws aren't so long that they interfere with those threads inside the threaded end cap.) For us, the most difficult part was getting the old connectors off without boo-fooing the old crossbar. As with all parts that haven't been loosened in forever, those adjustment set screws are likely frozen...recommend you go ahead and start dousing them with PB Blaster or similar now.
Fire away if there are any more questions...good luck!
Thanks Jerome.
i see the threaded END CAP THREADED 40550001, ADJUSTMENT ARM 40540001. Qty of 2, one for reach end.
Where does the non-threaded end cap fit and what is its number?
Thanks!
Not sure where you are getting the "Qty of 2, one for each end" from. Only one end (port) is suppposed to be adjustable...it gets the threaded end cap and adjustment arm.
The starboard end gets what I called the non-threaded end cap (was hoping to clarify the difference beween the two caps). In the Instructions for the retrofit Kit (P/N 1953) that I linked above, it's referred to as solid end cap. In the Drawing linked above, it's simply labelled END CAP 40560001, and the line points straight to the part but not so much to the description. Whatever one wants to call it, it is fixed (not adjustable).
Pictures may help...Adjustment Arm:HOBIE THREADED TILLER CONNECTOR ADJUSTER – Murrays Sports Threaded End Cap: HOBIE THREADED TILLER CONNECTOR END CAP 1953 – Murrays Sports (Non-threaded) End Cap: H-20-1995 & LATER TILLER CONNECTOR END CAP – Murrays Sports
Repeated for emphasis...As indicated in the Note toward the end of the Instructions, the threaded end cap and adjustment arm must be attached to the port end of the crossbar, and the (non-threaded) end cap to starboard. The yoke for the hiking stick attachment must tilt forward.
Further details...You will need two SS screws for the threaded end cap. They're shown as P/N 8032401 (Hobie Screw 10-24 X 1/4 Phms-P Ss - Mariner Sails) in the Drawing and #10-24 x 1/4" in the Instructions, but (as noted above) we just used short SS self-tapping screws instead. The (non-threaded) end cap will need either a couple of 3/16" SS rivets (not shown in Drawing) or, even easier, a ~3/16" SS bolt and nylock nut (shown in Figure B of Instructions; size not specified).
This fix really isn't as difficult as it might sound. It's just a little confusing because the parts were originally made for the H20 whereas the Kit/Instructions are for retrofitting some other models. It would also help if folks (like me) did not use different names for the same part!
Hey! It sounds like you're mixing an older tiller with newer rudders. You might be able to find an adapter kit designed for this type of connection, or if you're up for it, a local machine shop could help you fabricate a custom solution. Another option could be swapping the crossbar for a newer one that matches your H-20 Miracle tiller. Best of luck, and keep us posted on how it goes!
The tiller crossbar connection on the H16 is pretty straightforward. Make sure both tiller arms line up evenly, then attach the crossbar with the linkage that keeps the rudders moving together. The key is to check that the rudders stay parallel when you push or pull the tiller—if one lags or pulls ahead, adjust the linkage length. A clean, centered connection gives smoother steering and reduces stress on the rudder system. If your tiller feels stiff or uneven, small alignment tweaks usually solve it.
The adjustable side only goes on port, and the starboard end uses the solid (non-threaded) cap. The drawings and part names definitely don’t make it easy, especially since the kit was meant for other models. Sounds like your explanation clears up most of the confusion though. And you’re right, once you sort the terminology out, the actual fix is pretty straightforward.Not sure where you are getting the "Qty of 2, one for each end" from. Only one end (port) is suppposed to be adjustable...it gets the threaded end cap and adjustment arm.
The starboard end gets what I called the non-threaded end cap (was hoping to clarify the difference beween the two caps). In the Instructions for the retrofit Kit (P/N 1953) that I linked above, it's referred to as solid end cap. In the Drawing linked above, it's simply labelled END CAP 40560001, and the line points straight to the part but not so much to the description. Whatever one wants to call it, it is fixed (not adjustable).
Pictures may help...Adjustment Arm:HOBIE THREADED TILLER CONNECTOR ADJUSTER – Murrays Sports Threaded End Cap: HOBIE THREADED TILLER CONNECTOR END CAP 1953 – Murrays Sports (Non-threaded) End Cap: H-20-1995 & LATER TILLER CONNECTOR END CAP – Murrays Sports
Repeated for emphasis...As indicated in the Note toward the end of the Instructions, the threaded end cap and adjustment arm must be attached to the port end of the crossbar, and the (non-threaded) end cap to starboard. The yoke for the hiking stick attachment must tilt forward.
Further details...You will need two SS screws for the threaded end cap. They're shown as P/N 8032401 (Hobie Screw 10-24 X 1/4 Phms-P Ss - Mariner Sails) in the Drawing and #10-24 x 1/4" in the Instructions, but (as noted above) we just used short SS self-tapping screws instead. The (non-threaded) end cap will need either a couple of 3/16" SS rivets (not shown in Drawing) or, even easier, a ~3/16" SS bolt and nylock nut (shown in Figure B of Instructions; size not specified).
This fix really isn't as difficult as it might sound. It's just a little confusing because the parts were originally made for the H20 whereas the Kit/Instructions are for retrofitting some other models. It would also help if folks (like me) did not use different names for the same part!