Homebuilding a trimaran with tornado amas...

Carbon mast, foils, ruddersystem and careful selection of sails and blocks.. 23kgs is the target weight I think and if the hulls are 6kgs overweight in total that is no big deal. I would be happy to sail with a platform 6kgs overweight. Let me know if you want to get rid of those hulls and I'll be happy to discuss solutions with you.
Sorry for hijacking the thread, I'll go away now.

Gents,
I apologize for butting in, but, the Cat hulls you mention are exactly what I'm hoping to utilize on a homemade Tri.
What's anyone seen, or heard of as far as utilizing existing Cat. parts, or even any form of Mono hull for the center as part of a decent Tri? Thanks
Mark

There are some good stock small trimaran designs around. I think both Chris White and John Marples offer them.
If you wanted to make something from recycled beachcat hulls and something (??) for the main hull, what are the major aspects you need to cover to ensure you get something sailable when finished? My short list would be:
1. Is there enough righting moment available for the rig?
2. Is there enough lateral aera for it to go to windward? (at least 12% of sail area)
3. Is there enough rudder to provide seerage? (at least 4% of sail area)
4. Does the center of effort of sails (centroid of both sails together) lead the center of lateral resistance (cenrtoid of rudder/boards together) by at least 8%? This ensures balance under sail.
5. Will the boat float on her intended lines? Need to check fore/aft bouyancy distribution.
6. It the platform strong and stiff enough to resist normal sailing loads? Look at what works for other designers and follow their lead.
This is my list of the top six. Did I forget anything?
Kevin
Lots of interesting tech. questions for a newbie, but that's good!
One of the best pictures of a
homebuilt tri
I've found so far is the 'Trinado', which uses Tornado hulls.
Based on the comments here, and the Trinado's builders comments about a bit too little righting moment, would a smaller main hull not be the answer? What particulars would be involved in choosing a preexisting hull for a good match if there is one? I'm aware that all this reference to salvaged parts
on the cheap
may read as sort of pathetic, but the upgrade to a quality boat (read: tamer, drier) of 20-25' from my WindRider Rave without over a $20K investment is most realistic.
Next question to me would be what's the best, (reasonable $$) option for a good folding assembly?
Mark

To answer your last question I think that the Astus telescopic system meets best up to your specs. http://www.exaqua.co.uk/
I don't by that say that it's the best, but I'ts simple and cheap to make.
Ignoring any rigid dollar amounts for total project cost, and instead planning on a boat that could be trailered to a ramp and set up solo quickly, are the specific hull connectors going to be the most critical item to an easy set up? And, are they something one can shop for?
I know my 'Rave's tube mount Ama's with it's bolts, stays,tensioning lines,tramp lines,etc. take some time to put together.
Are the fold out Ama parts that(Farrier?) has on their web site the only ones of that type for aftermarket available?
I believe from fleeting memory they were $10-$15K for all the associated pieces. Sound about right? $@&##@$$$!!
To me, being able to pull up, and sail away quickly would define a usable (and likable) boat. That's probably worth paying for. But only so much.
Bottom line: A quick set up boat would perhaps be #1 criteria for choosing a
trailerable
Tri to me.
Ideas?
Mark Iverson

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